“The collection alludes to the world of drawing, sometimes exaggerated costumes fashioned by celebrated opera artists.” Angela Missoni is delivering a collection that’s enamored by Eastern influences; in her own words, “the ambiance reveals a charming young girl from Shanghai enamored by the Chinese tradition.” Imbued with audacity and graphic details, the designer is apposing...
Straight out of the retro-futuristic universe of the 90s, the Fall/Winter 2015-2016 collection from the MM6 line ends up like a complicated chemical experience. Throughout the runway, very technical but still poetic pieces are to be discovered. By concentrating the DNA of the collection around the notion of survival, the MM6 Martin Margiela line couldn’t...
Alessandra Facchinetti is inaugurating for Fall/Winter 2015-2016 a rich and more elaborated collection by introducing Tod’s to new worlds. The designer is this time taking inspiration from the Memphis movement – an influential Italian artistic wave in the 80s – and, to the delight of her acolytes, Facchinetti likes to divide volumes into different types...
One thing is certain: next season, the Chloé girl isn’t afraid to claim her romanticism and exacerbate her femininity. But make no mistake: Chloé is elegant, a tad hippy, but with a down to earth spirit that mixes masculine and feminine. This is how Clare Waight Keller ends up slipping her into clothing with folkloric...
A blue carpet runway, carmen lips and grapes print, for her second runway at the head of the chic Parisian label, Julie de Libran imagined a collection with Nouvelle Vague influences. Combining fun with chic, classicism with futurism, the new creative director for Rykiel ordered pretty silhouettes that functioned without an ounce of preciosity. And,...
The Simone Rochas army sports tutus covered with rose-embroidered chiffon, with fantasy derbies tacked on Plexi soles… This silhouette sticks out in a crowd and, once again this season, is finding itself celebrated on the catwalk. Alessandro Dell’Acqua is thus delivering a fantastic and hyperbolic vision of Rochas’ DNA, this time influenced by the strength...
“It’s been a long time,” read the invitation for Courrèges’ runway. After a nearly 13 year absence, Courrèges made their big comeback on the catwalk, taking care to highlight the avant-garde spirit that originally forged their reputation. Onstage in a vast white amphitheater, located in the basement of Paris’ Opéra Bastille, Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud...
Beneath the glass dome of Paris’ Grand Palais, everything was set up like in real life: baggage check-in windows, personnel on the ground, flight status boards… After the supermarket, Karl Lagerfeld is now bringing his beauties to a Chanel airport. This collection was first and foremost a pragmatic and fantasy-tinged interpretation of the idea of...
There are certain collections that ooze desirability from the first to the last look on the runway. Isabel Marant’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection is one of these: from canvas folk pants and long gilded coats to harem pants cut in a sophisticated lurex, next season will be globe trotting or bust! This is how the stylist...
Next season, one of the “Antwerp Six” is tacking a profusion of motifs onto his clothing. This powerful exuberance is found on strictly tailored jackets, sequined bras, glimmering pants, or tops that flaunt their finesse. Once more Dries Van Noten is pursuing and exhibiting his passion for rich traditional fabrics like jacquard, brocade, and silk;...
