The See-Through Blouse, Tuxedo And Hippie Spirit For Spring/Summer 2020 From Saint Laurent

“Saint Laurent is dangerous elegance” according to the current artistic director of the house, Anthony Vaccarello.

Paris, September 2019. The Trocadéro Gardens once again hosted the highly scripted fashion show of the Saint Laurent house. There, with the Eiffel Tower in the background, the YSL women set off in the pouring but poetic rain. All in legs, the goddesses of the night sported the iconic gimmicks initiated by Yves Saint Laurent in the last century. The Tuxedo, of course, but also and above all the hippie-glam inspiration!

It must be said that the revolution brought by Mr. Yves largely consisted in magnifying the gimmicks-fashion of a street then bolting of freedom. We thus find the turbans and the bohemian spirit Rive Gauche so worn by Loulou de la Falaise. But this time, it’s combined with other key YSL fashion effects that Anthony Vaccarello thinks about them. The bohemian dresses here embrace the see-through effects, when the iconic blouse of the house does not reappear on the shoulders of Freja Beha, in a version quite close to the original.

The emphasis on seventies opulence is alongside the very contemporary simplicity of elegantly low-cut tank tops, when they are not downright transparent! This is the whole point of such a house – to handle with elegance and refinement the sulphurous to distinction. As Anthony Vaccarello sums it up, “Saint Laurent is dangerous elegance.”

The New Dior Boutique On Rue Saint-Honoré

The house of Dior has unveiled its new large flagship store at the corner of rue Saint-Honoré and rue Cambon. A wonderful place bringing together the whole Dior universe.

The New Dior Boutique Rue Saint-Honoré, Temple De Merveille

The new Dior store is now planted at the corner between 261 Rue Saint-Honoré and 14/16 Rue Cambon. A boutique cut like a dreamlike setting where the Dior wonders come to shine with harmony.

Distributed over 5 floors, the entire Dior universe is thus staged – ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes and accessories, including the fantastic creations of Dior Joaillerie and Dior Maison.

“Redesigned by the architect Peter Marino, the restored stone facade, adorned with large bay windows, blends harmoniously with this Parisian building from the 18th century. Inside, the four floors mix aerial heights with more intimate spaces, evoking the atmosphere of a town house; the fluid and abstract lines, combined with the soft nuances, bring a touch of modernity and luminous serenity” details the house.

It is true that something even more sublime is happening in this new Dior boutique. The universe of Rue Montaigne is distilled in a different way – chairs in Jouy canvas , ivory and gray, are exposed for example for the first time!

Pieces and elements of the grammar of Christian Dior which, more than once, have inspired the artistic directors of his house. It is not surprising to discover now a new bag called desire, created for the occasion – the Dior St Honoré leather tote.

Better yet, a service dedicated to personalization makes it possible to endorse these new icons. Enough to seek inspiration from the side of the Haute Couture Dior 2020 collection, presented in a mini-film with the appearance of a fairy tale! You can discover it here.

The Hermès Men’s Spring/Summer 2021 Collection

During a global pandemic, this is the new format that Véronique Nichanian introduced her vision of the Hermès man for Spring/Summer 2021.

The Hermès Men’s Spring/Summer 2021 Collection

It is at the heart of the Pantin workshops that the house of Hermès delivered a film performance in collaboration with Cyril Teste. Entitled “Hors-Champs”, the performance featured the new timeless pieces of the house epitome of French luxury – more dynamism and spontaneity!

At the head of the men’s creation of the Hermès house since 1988, Véronique Nichanian seems to have drawn from this very particular context a vision of elegance, again targeting eternity. Noble materials, stripes and overlays thus elevate the Hermès icons to the rank of more than perfect clothes.

Pieces where the leathers shine even more of their finesse on sandals, with a sole tinted with the legendary orange Hermès . Shirts cut in the volume of the jackets, and jackets like shirts – stone, pale blue or gravel or storm, to use Hermès terminology. Shirts again where the cotton streak hints at the iconic anchor chain, this time in a subtle ethereal print.

Once staged by Cyril Teste, the pieces from the Spring/Summer 2021 Man Hermès collection gain spontaneity!

“I did a show in Pantin in the workshop once before, a long time ago, and it was my idea to come back here where the craftsmen are, in this beautiful space with beautiful light.” details Véronique Nichanian.

A crossover between dressers, models, cameramen where each plays his role in a film performance which, ultimately, takes more of an authentic testimony to the soul of the house Hermès. A house where we watch over quality and refinement in an atmosphere that is both tinged with reality and dreamlike.

Cyril Teste says it: Hors Champs was “a meeting between two sensibilities.” A film which does not aim to “make an event” but to “shape our meeting born around a job and a necessity.”

A performance that highlights all the relevance of Hermès silhouettes – to see here .

Off The Grid By Gucci, Circular Fashion

Gucci is committed to circular fashion with its Gucci Circular Lines collection – an inspired and committed initiative, staged by Harmony Korine with Jane Fonda, Lil Nas X, King Princess, Miyavi and David de Rothschild!

Off The Grid, The First Gucci Circular Lines Collection

Alessandro Michele captured like few designers the needs of his time. And this time, it was towards circular production and inspired but responsible fashion that he turned all his creativity to the Gucci house.

Off The Grid, The Collection

Alessandro Michele  looked at the first Gucci collection produced in circular production – and the result places the house in echo with the times. Aimed at those who wear what they think is right, the Off Grid Gucci collection is exclusively made from recycled, organic, natural and sustainable materials – in particular ECONYL®.

This nylon, regenerated from destructive plastic waste, transforms and becomes material for luggage, accessories, shoes and ready-to-wear. These plastics harmful to marine life and likely to end up in landfills thus transmute to become genderless icons of the Gucci style .

Highly stylized and always so refined, the pieces of the Off Grid collection once again demonstrate the potential of up-cycling.

“The collection is the result of teamwork; everyone brought something to it. And in the campaign too, there is this idea of ​​dialogue between people to build something new. I imagined that we could build a treehouse in a city center, all together, like children playing in the park. Because we all need to build this house or to discover that our planet exists, even where it seems not to be there, or it is far away ”explains Alessandro Michele.

Off The Grid In Campaign With Jane Fonda

And to embody these values, Gucci relied on the presence of Jane Fonda, Lil Nas X, King Princess, Miyavi and David de Rothschild!

In front of the camera of photographer and director Harmony Korine, these activists, artists, actors or actresses camp a group of city dwellers who have made a rustic cabin, built in a tree in the middle of a gigantic modern metropolis of concrete and glass, their safe haven.

A refuge from destructive conformism, the cabin, a small wooden structure, contrasts sharply with the smooth, vertical skyscrapers that overshadow it. Fantastic images where its vegetation and poorly assembled boards echo the craftsmanship of Gucci. High facing the concrete.

The experience of the sublime thus comes from the respect for the knowledge that Alessandro Michele for Gucci intends to lead towards new possibilities.

A campaign in harmony with the Off Grid collection – an ode to ingenuity and the ability of Gucci fashion to generate happiness and curiosity. Without hurting the planet.

The Dior Fall/Winter 2020 Collection and La Rosa Mutabilis

Maria Grazia Chuiri distills a precious rose from China in her Dior Fall/Winter 2020 collection. Blooming on the icons of the house which is reminiscent of the influence of China on Monsieur’s imagination.

Dior and China: A Story of Rose

While reversing fashion with the manifesto of his collection presented in 1947, Christian Dior distilled in this first collection his love for floral prints and silhouettes of the Orient.

Silhouettes inspired by a fantasized vision of China. A country where Christian Dior had never been before.

China Dreamed of Monsieur Dior

1947 is a key date in the world of Dior. Already because 30 Avenue Montaigne hosted for the first time a collection designed by Monsieur Dior. It was then in 1947 and above all the collection that laid the groundwork for the aesthetics of the house .

In this collection, the Tailleur bar poses the Dior grammar. The silhouettes inspired by China imagined by Monsieur Dior finished determining their aesthetics!

In this first parade we notice all the panache of an overcoat baptized Shanghai, worn with a Tonkinese hat. In 1948, he continued to explore the vocabulary of the Chinese tradition and presented his models entitled ‘China’, ‘Beijing’ and ‘Shanghai’.

In 1950, it was the ideograms that inspired him with a print for a dress from the Vertical line. Even more masterful, in 1955, Dior reinterpreted the traditional qipao dress, worn by Shanghai women in the inter-war period.

But at Dior, they borrowed a bright pink hue, and became a whole: Surprise, cut for Fall/Winter 1955.

And when Christian Dior’s passion for flowers – and roses – meet a rare hope from China, everything falls in place to inspire the Dior Fall/Winter 2020 collection!

The Dior Fall / Winter 2020 Collection, And La Rosa Mutabilis

Imagined by Maria Grazia Chiuri, the Fall/Winter 2020 collection distills a print transferring the hypnotic Rosa Mutabilis to Dior icons.

This species of rose from China has the particularity of changing color according to its blooming. Thus applied to the icons that are the Dior Book Tote, the Walk’n’Dior sneakers, the J’Adior pumps and the scarf Mitzah, named after the muse of Monsieur. La Rosa Mutabilis emanates all the enchantments of Dior grammar.

Monsieur himself could not have been otherwise enchanted by such a collection. He wrote in his  Little Dictionary of Fashion in 1954: “I think the floral prints are wonderful – the silk prints, beautiful colors, are perfect for afternoon sets, evening dresses or cocktail dresses. In bright colors too, floral prints can brighten up holiday clothes. ”

The Smalto Suits – Absolute Icons of Cinematographic Elegance

Charles Aznavour dedicated him a couplet in “Je me voyages déja”… Something along the lines of “J’étais certain de conquérir Paris / Chez le tailleur le plus chic j’ai fait faire / Ce complet bleu qu’était du dernier cri” [I was sure of conquering Paris / At the most chic tailor in Paris / This latest blue suit]. Throwback to an icon of the genre. 

Once again, Calabria in Italy was the crib for a talented couturier. If his style is less flashy than Gianni Versace’s, it is because Francesco Smalto was formed at Harris, president Kennedy’s tailor. Discretion and luxury in the details being at the centre point, Smalto would later on inject a high dose of refinement, but just like that as if it were nothing. “My goal was to be a couturier different from the others, which is to say to offer something that can’t be seen anywhere else…”

Settled in Paris, rue de La Boétie, in 1962, Francesco Smalto’s boutique would not take long to attract the eyes of the artists of the time. Claude François and Charles Aznavour appreciated the mastery of the suit to such an extent that he made it an indispensable piece for the chic and  ambitious man just arrived in Paris. In the song “Je me voyages déja” he is referring to a Smalto suit after all!

It must be said that Francesco Smalto works the art of the suit like no one else. Inspired by the sportswear trend which was in vogue in the 80s, Smalto conceived light and flexible suits. Made of jersey or wild silk, these double-breasted suits or suits with flat pockets and sewn flaps would become the symbol of important men. In real life, politicians swore by him. Françoise Sagan also, “He is one of the rare men that is able to mix luxury and sobriety, daily life and brightness. He is an artists and a god”. 

At the cinema, the wildly elegant pieces help the most emblematic of characters like Alan Delon, Jean-Paul Belmondo or even Sean Connery. In Bernardo Bertolucci’s “The Last Emperor” the characters wear Smalto suits – and the play on the brightness of the materials only adds to the fascination!

The Smalto signature? Flower in the button hole, rolled shoulder, Milanese button hole, simplified finishings, lighter lining. The “foulard” tuxedo in crêpe de Chine weighs only 380 grams giving the house a world record…Talking about champions, Smalt is today the official wardrobe for the French football team. Off field, of course. Each of their suits is made under the exact same process as the one invented by Francesco Smalto. The maison details “70 hours of work, 33 steps, 20 artisans are indispensable to create each suit by hand through a traditional technique”. A magnificence  that drives Smalto to receive the title of the label “Entreprise du patrimoine” delivered by the french state. A prodigy both discrete and iconic!

Houndstooth And Tailleur Bar : The Sustainable Vision Of Dior For Spring/Summer 2020

Maria Grazia Chiuri wanted a collection wear creativity and sustainability are fused – Miss Dior and the coupe bar in the forefront! 

From Christian Dior, we know of the femme-fleur, his own love for the rose and the softness of the Miss Dior perfume. What we know less is that Catherine Dior, his sister, was not only a decorated resistante after the Second World War, but also found her reminiscent in botany and gardening. Nature and the beauty of flowers have a resonating effect on this exceptional woman. It is exactly this that Maria Grazia Chiuri wanted to underline for Spring/Summer 2020. 

The result? A plethora of silhouettes inspired by this gardener, but also all the iconic codes of the Dior house injected here and there. The houndstooth motif, present from the very first collections of Monsieur, makes more than apparition – they are interweaved to the H line, tightened by the Bar cut, it gives an unexpected charm to the Spring/Summer 2020 silhouette. Better, it is coiffed with a bob cut reclaiming the mythical carnage of 30 Avenue Montaigne that Maria Grazia Chiuri gains in pertinence!

Created by Stephen Jones, “The hats for Dior this season are made using straw collected in Switzerland, Italy, the Philippines and France. It is the United Nations assembled into a straw hat” jokes the famous hat-maker. An ode to nature, this Spring/Summer 2020 collection from Dior goes outside of the frame of desirability to give to today’s women eternal pieces. A sort of fusion between heritage and future, under the guise of Mother Nature, carrying environmentalist statements. No need to make functional fashion to respect the planet!

See-Through Blouse, Smoking And Hippie Spirit For Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2020

“Saint-Laurent is dangerous elegance” according to the maison’s artistic director Anthony Vaccarello. 

Paris, September 2019. The gardens of the Trocadéro are home once again to the highly scripted runway show of Saint Laurent. There, with the Eiffel Tower as backdrop, the YSL women strut sleekly under a roaring but poetic rain. All in legs, these goddesses of the night wear the iconic gimmicks of Yves Saint Laurent initiated in the last century. The Smoking, of course but also the hippie-glam inspiration!

It must be said that the revolution brought on by Monsieur Yves consisted largely to magnify the fashion-gimmicks of a street that was once brimming with freedom. We find the turbans and the bohemian spirit of the Rive Gauche which were adorned by Loulou de la Falaise. This time, however, it is combined to entirely different key motifs of YSL fashion thought up by Anthony Vaccarello. The bohemian dresses embrace the see-through effect, while the iconic blouse of the house reappears on the shoulder of Freja Beha in a version all close to the original.

The beautiful credit to the seventies opulence carries the very contemporary simplicity of the cut out débardeur when it is made almost transparent! And that is where all the merit of such a house lies – to meddle with elegance and refinement the sulphurous with the distinctive.. but as resumes Anthony Vaccarello, “Saint Laurent is dangerous elegance”. 

The Chanel Lion of Kristen Stewart


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