Miss Dior: A Fragrance of Optimism and Femininity

If Dior couture had to be given a scent, it would be Miss Dior – a fresh, floral trail, a universal classic.

The Perfume Of The Dior Woman

1947. Christian Dior goes out of fashion for everything that was done in his time, reviving the ease and abundance of the pre-war era. With its New Look and feminine silhouettes, Dior is restoring Paris to its rank as the capital of elegance.

And while his first looks redefine a woman’s figure, he also gives women a scent to match them. “This is why I became so much a perfumer, so that it is enough to uncork a bottle to see all my dresses appear.” The couturier has just created a scent, still without a name. A first fragrance from the house, still in the prototype stage, but completely accomplished, Dior chooses to perfume the salons during its parades. Philippe Le Moult, director of institutional relations at Dior, in charge of its heritage, says “Liters are sprayed on customers during the weeks that the parades last.”

In December 1947, a few months after its presentation, 283 copies of this first ultra-luxurious bottle (still without a name) were marketed. Cut in Baccarat crystal in the form of an amphora, designed by Fernand Guéry-Colas. How did he become Miss Dior?

A journalist familiar with the house of Dior in the 1940s and 1950s, Alice Chavannes de Dalmassy, ​​reports how during a meeting, even as Christian Dior and Mitzah Bricard, meditated deeply on this subject, Christian’s sister made an impromptu entry. Slowly descending the large stairs, it is towards him that she looks when Mitzah sees her and announces, “Here there is Miss Dior. “Christian, inspired, exclaims: “Miss Dior! It’s my perfume!”

The Miss Dior, An Olfactory Allure

Christian Dior wanted a fresh but sensual fragrance, young but timeless: a fragrance that smells of love. This delicate perfume, it is in the Gardens of Granville that it finds its starting point. Inspired by Millot’s Crêpe de Chine, a powerful chypre of aldehydes and styrallyl acetate, the accord is repeated in Miss Dior with the addition of galbanum to accentuate the effect of “acetate”.

When Chrsitian Dior describes it himself, “Miss Dior is light, fresh and lively, from the first notes of galbanum and gardenia, enhanced by the impertinence of sage. Then, wrapping around the fragrant space, the elusive charm of jasmine, rose and neroli mingles with the bewitching harmonies of patchouli and cistus-labdanum, while the velvety warmth of oak moss lingers in the air.”

Miss Dior is a creature, an attitude, an allure and ultimately a way of being. It is another Parisienne that the couturier wants to capture in this essence. A liberated Paris, a younger, crazier Paris; intoxicated with jazz and freed from the future. Miss Dior has all the audacity of Catherine. It was for France that Catherine Dior fought, it is to find this Paris that she joined the Resistance during the Second War.

Secret and discreet, she was deported on August 15, 1944 on the last train heading for the Ravensbrück concentration camp. During nine months, tortured, she will not deliver any of the names of her comrades. Finally, on May 28, she returned to France. Returning from the camps marked, his presence, so dear to the heart of his twelve-year-old brother, his elder brother, will be the spring of this olfactory homage.

Mademoiselle Dior is first and foremost Catherine. Miss Dior apostrophes the passer-by as the enthusiasm of youth would do. The impact is like a surge of vitality which makes the step more certain. Confident of herself, pressed to the point of impertinence, but exhaling a crazy chic, that’s it, Miss Dior!

This is how everyone remembers the perfume that Dior wanted as the spirit of its time. A smell of very green grass, enhanced by spring leaves with laughing flowers. Like an impromptu waltz that finally takes place on the cobblestones.

Full of life, delicate, the scent is thus embodied by Natalie Portman in campaigns that have become no less iconic. The film Miss Dior Chérie by Sofia Coppola.

The hymn to love by Emmanuel Cossu. “For me, perfume is not everyday, it’s a certain way of dressing,” explains Natalie Portman. A timeless fragrance that symbolizes French charm.

All captured in a bottle revisited in 1950 by Christian Dior himself. He designed a bottle “cut like a tailor.” A houndstooth print, cast in solid glass, a Fontanges knot to hug the neck, the iconic bottle then appears in its final version.


Atelier Versace Perfumes

Ateliers Versace present six new fragrances, orchestrated under the direction of Donatella Versace. Exclusively at Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann. 

The New Atelier Versace Perfumes

The Versace house unveils a collection of scents concocted under the direction of Donatella Versace. 6 new fragrances produced by Atelier Versace which revisits, in the form of olfactory compositions, the iconic codes of the house.

Five perfumers looked at the craft of the house of Versace, in order to better link it to that of perfumery. The result? True olfactory celebrations of the noble materials of perfumery coupled with the baroque luxury of the Italian house!

“The idea that every woman is different, and that if we all like to wear a tailor-made dress, this is even truer when it comes to a perfume. We all want to find that scent that truly represents who we are.” explains Donatella Versace.

The 6 scents are independent of each other, what they have in common is that of being genderless. Delicious or sexy waters therefore, designed for both men and women.

The new Atelier Versace fragrances are called Eclat de Rose, Cédrat de Diamante, Sun Jasmine, Figue Blanche, Sandalwood or Red Vanilla. Each of the olfactory highlights the sunny and sexy attitude of the house of Versace.

Playing majestically as a flagship ingredient in perfumery, Atelier Versace fragrances therefore combine the opulent luxury of Versace with key ingredients such as rose, lemon, citron, jasmine, fig, sandalwood and even vanilla.

This is how one of the new Atelier Versace perfumes, named Jasmin au Soleil, distils a solar and fascinating water, similar to the Medusa logo. The nose behind its composition, Nathalie Lorson specifies:

“Atelier Versace’s luminous emblem, a nod to Greek mythology, guided my inspiration. This combination of very opulent jasmine with sparkling citrus notes, embodies the sweet impertinence of a falsely innocent universe”

But there is more. The very bottles of these new Atelier Versace fragrances present sulphurous luxury! The Versace perfume bottles, pale or black in twisted glass (exceptional craftsmanship), are capped with hand-made caps. A luxury that continues even with their box, enhanced by hand-painted finishes.

How to add a little more daring and originality to these juices sometimes sensual, sometimes carnal – but very Versace in short.

Paris Fashion and Luxury Icons Tour

This is the tour for the curious, gourmets, enthusiasts and connoisseurs of fashion and luxury by Sébastien Girard, creator of www.icon-icon.com and @iconiconmedia.

A tour of the iconic and enchanting places of the capital. These places where the icons of fashion, luxury have been, in turn, thought, imagined, created, concocted, and lived! Come and discover our heritage, the great luxury houses, the palaces, which has forged the reputation of Paris as the indisputable capital of chic, luxury and the art of living.

Discover the places where Paris’ reputation as the indisputable capital of chic, luxury and ‘joie de vivre’ has been formed. With a Parisian, coupled with a professor operating for the prestigious schools of fashion, commerce and hospitality, he will tell you the little stories and fascinating anecdotes hidden behind these pieces, these places, these experiences and these emblematic people.

I invite you to stroll with me – starting from Place Vendôme. Where the first modern palace stands – the Ritz! So many stories have happened there.

So many innovations too – in particular that of the French School of Gastronomy, with Auguste Escoffier operating from the kitchens of the Ritz.

A unique expertise, and excellence for signature, Chef Nicolas Sale is in charge. On the pastry side, it is François Perret who revives the taste buds today. But the iconic hot chocolate and madeleines, especially that of Proust, are still very much in the news!

We then continue up Rue de la Paix.

The street of jewels, of couture and diamonds of goldsmiths…Cartier. Mellerio said to Mellers. The boutique of the first designer in history, whose name I’ll keep to better reveal later. And that of Massaro, whose name may not arouse anything…for the moment.

Now, we arrive at the heart of French luxury. Place Vendôme and its aura of magnificence. The Mecca of fine jewelry – Chaumet, Boucheron, Van Cleef and…let me tell you about the scandal caused by the first collection of fine jewelry cut by a seamstress…

This seamstress was inspired by the octagonal lines of Place Vendôme for her perfume N°5.

And then?

Then this tour that retraces the hotspots of fashion and luxury will plunge you into the heart of Rue Saint Honoré.

With Goyard, first of all. The trunk maker settled here in 1853.

Further on, it was the Moynat universe that linked fashion, dance and opera.

Then, it’s time to come back to the art of Francis Kurkdjian, a key vendor of French perfumes.

Next, we disembark on the lively artery that is Rue de Rivoli.

It is here that the secrets whispered by the ceramic of its sidewalk, under its arcades, will all be revealed to you…

The bookseller Galignani, Angelina, Meyrowitz at 5 Rue de Castiglione… the first luxury eyewear manufacturer!

Goutal, another company that makes the greatness of French perfumery.

Meyrovitz, Grolet and even the Palace of Mauritius had so much to say about the icons of luxury and fashion! Pieces that have revolutionized the genre, but not only that!

The pastry of Meurice by Cédric Grolet merges sculpture, fruit and gluttony. Le Meurice, again, from where Alain Ducasse has literally revolutionized cooking, advocates a return to culinary simplicity. A taste experience that has become an example of the genre.

This is also where Guerlain founded his company. In 1828, the Guerlain perfumery moved to the ground floor of the Meurice hotel!

Another icon of gastronomy, it is at Mandarin Oriental where we will find Thierry Marx cuisine – and his signature dish – Le Risotto au…

We now pass in front of the place which hosted the very first Yves Saint Laurent parade.

Now we find ourselves at the heart of the Chanel universe. Where the heart of his workshops has been beating since 1910, Rue Cambon.

We now find ourselves the heart of the Chanel universe. In particular with the surrounding houses, purchased by that of Coco. Like Maison Michel – we can imagine the Chanel woman in a Virginie hat, right?

Finally, we arrive in Parisian night time – Maxim’s, the Mecca of the Second Empire of Napoleon. Hotspot of Parisian life, where the pleasure of the senses has become a way of life. Haute couture, champagne, parties until the early hours – casseroles laid the foundations of Parisian life.

The Hôtel du Crillon has seen Parisian women. The first palace in old history to have this sophistication!

We now will cross over to Rue Royale to join the artery world – the beautiful and the sublime.

Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré – the most luxurious street in the world holds the keys to more than one universally desired product today.

Now it’s time to go back up, not too far, to the boutique where the ecstasy of French luxury was acquired. The Hermès boutique is brimming with objects of desire, very inspirational display cases. And anecdotes that have raised the standards of fashion and luxury all over the world!

Jeanne Lanvin, too, had her part to play. In 1889, she opened here, at 16 Rue Boissy d´Anglas, what would become the oldest French fashion house.

Paris is a story of chic and sophistication.

A story of pleasure and of knowing how to live. A story that La Durée always tells. So, how not to end this “Paris Fashion and Luxury Icons Tour” with these macaroons, such chic delicacies.

You have to have seen and tasted these little bits of Parisian life to understand it better!

Reservations

Terre d’Hermès, Sensuality Of A Perfume

A perfume concocted in 2006 has, 13 years later, been enthroned to the pantheon of icons. Terre d’Hermès breathed a new vision of masculinity. 

Neither sweet nor peppery. Terre d’Hermès  carries woody, spicy notes – this is where it sources all its strength. When Jean-Claude Ellena was given the mission to elaborate a new scent, the nose attracted by Hermès wanted to join together the authenticity and emotion brought up by such a maison. He would source his inspiration from Jean Giono’s literature to find the harmony of man in the 21st century. 

Known for his stories that join the world of Provence with Italian flavors, Jean Giono inspired in Jean-Claude Ellena a story.. “A story with characters, a mise en scène of olfactive emotions”. His mantra? Terre d’Hermès must be a perfume that is “direct,  honest and readable” – a sillage most befitting of the Hermès man. “At once simple and complex, tender and determined, a dreamer with his feet on the ground” notes Jean-Claude Ellena. And the result stays true to the nose’s signature stamp. 

Terre d’Hermè is an earthy fragrance that plays at its top notes an accord between grapefruit, bergamot and pink peppercorn. At its heart, black pepper balances itself out on an emanating geranium before flying out together in a titillating vetiver. Cedar and benzoin come to complete the composition. “Today, I create with less than 200 materials, when perfumes normally contain 1000 our 1500” clarifies Jean-Claude Ellena. And it is true that his olfactive style is very fitting to the Hermès vision of luxury. 

Terre d’Hermés carries that discrete elegance that has now become quasi-synonymous with the maison at 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. A density and a mineral depth that makes it one of the most sold perfumes in the world. It must be said that the man that wears Terre can only spread sensuality and brightness with every step. A kind of incarnation of the masculine ideal, conceived around the natural elements celebrating the breathtaking beauty of Nature. To capture this juice, surprising for its power, Philippe Mousquet was given the role to create the bottle. 

A bottle where Philippe Mousquet, the designer of Hermès at the time, managed to put into perspective an unexpected structure. The idea? The bottom of the bottle moulded into the letter “H” leaving a visible mark – just as the perfume leaves its trace in the soul. A heritage that Christine Nagel, who succeeded Jean-Claude Elena in 2016, seeks to preserve. Just as Hermès continues its impeccable style beyond fashions and seasons – this is chic with a capital H.

The Perfume Angel By Mugler – The Irresistible Icon

Thierry Mugler wanted a “perfume that would have a common resonance to all, something close to tenderness and childhood”. The icon Angel was thus born, and not without its fair share of peripeteia. 

It is a story of a perfume that is just as appreciated as it is known. Gourmand and sexual. A smell imagined by Thierry Mugler, couturier and avant gardiste, sourcing inspiration in a futurism with a wild and desirable grammar. In the 1990s, at the height of his art, the designer took to create a perfume like no other, a perfume that would resonate with all as such a familiar scent that it would become ungraspable. 

The idea is there. However, few talents in the perfume industry had the audacity to create such a genius scent. It is the impulsion of Olivier Cresp that would accomplish the project; “I spent two hours talking with Thierry Mugler”. He recalls how Mugler “spoke to me about the goûters that he would have at his grandmothers, the madeleines dipped in chocolate and then of amusement parks and candy-floss”.

More than 600 trials were necessary for Olivier Cresp to create the fragrance. At the top notes: kiwi, blackcurrant, mandarine – bright and sparkling. At the heart – passionfruit. And the bottom notes: patchouli, caramel, cocoa, heliotrope, honey and vanilla – the suave side of the icon. Yes, Thierry Mugler’s Angel is truly an icon of perfumery. Sold just as much as Chanel’s N°5 or Dior’s J’adore, Angel is different in that it stays as a type of sweet treat. Tender and sensual. 

To capture this voluntarily carnal scent, Thierry Mugler wanted a bottle at the level of his fashion. A futuristic bottle that takes one of the lucky charms of the designer – the star. This time, blue and flat. Here, once again – not a single glassmaker could make such a bottle. Only the glassmakers Brosse accepted the challenge. It took two years of research to come up with the bottle – an original and hypnotising object. Worthy of the Angel scent. Irresistible and voluptuous – the Angel perfume by Mugler enjoyed a truly desirable aura. Incarnated by Jerry Hall, Eva Mendes or more recently by Georgia May Jagger. 

Poison Girl by Dior

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The history of the Poison collection begins in 1985, year when the house at 30 avenue Montaigne released a perfume with a slightly provocative allure. First of all there’s the name: Poison, already a foreboding omen. Then there’s the flask: a concoction captured in an apple-shaped bottle, the very archetype of the forbidden fruit. It wouldn’t take long for Poison to set tongues wagging. This scent is indeed the ultimate tool of seduction – just a few drops would be able to bring an entire crowd to its feet with the carnal facet that’s intimately multiplied within its wake.

That’s how Poison Girl begins, with the invigorating scent of orange. This hesperedic note confers it a profound dynamism and instantly awakens the senses of all those who dare travel in its wake. Then, the scent constructs itself and takes a particularly feminine turn. An enormous bouquet of flowers composed of May roses, cultivated in the Grasse region of France, as all as Damascus roses. The latter, symbol of an elegance that Monsieur Dior himself long worked with, brings a glamorous touch to the perfume. Finally the endnotes of Poison Girl arrive, more enveloping than the first upon contact with Venezuelan tonka bean that here gives off a velvety aspect. Incarnated by Camille Rowe, this scent is finding success with the nouveau elegant!

Bleu de Chanel

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There is one color that is incontestably profitable to the imagination; blue is inscrutable, blue is infinite, blue is profound – fresh like the newly fallen night, as impudent as an expanse of water, variating from a winter sky to cobalt overhead, blue is ever so close to the shadows, the last grade before sheer black. Gabrielle Chanel had a particular soft spot for this intense navy blue, just as much as she did for white, beige, and black. In 2010, Chanel’s laboratories released a cologne for a free man: Bleu de Chanel, a scent that’s like an ode to the freedom to improvise, composed for a masculine soul who writes the screenplay for his own life with each step.

In 2014, Jacques Polge proposed a new interpretation for the fragrance. An intense variation that fits in with its lineage all while treading a new amber and sensual territory – as if blue was now nourished by the light of night. This new olfactory and visual ballad, an Eau de Parfum, isn’t content with simply concentrating the key ingredients of the original formula into a new one. Now more enveloping and rounder, Blue de Chanel Eau de Parfum is there to comfort an extremely free man, a strong and determined man, overflowing with self-confidence, who’s fragility remains a secret… Isn’t this the power behind Gabrielle’s character ?

Bleu de Chanel takes its freshness from the Mediterranean, in the citrus fields of Calabria, in the foliage of aromatic herbs, at the heart of vetiver roots, in fusions of cedar wood and the unctuosity of sandalwood. But this time, these amber, almost velvety woods, take over where aqueous and aromatic freshness left off. The Eau de Parfum is a sharp and sudden emotion. From the initial shivers resonates the echo of woods at the heart while a base of arid cedar oxygenates and offloads the formula. In its wake, sandalwood from New Caledonia begins like distant music, and the freshness fuses. Bleu de Chanel Eau de Parfum claims a virile sensuality. Irresistible, it gives the desire to get closer to the skin, to feel even nearer to this carnal song. Its freshness is insubordinate, sharp, and residual… The olfactory banner of male nonconformism.

Dolce & Gabbana: The One

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The One is a special perfume in that it explores multiple facets of the same woman – this extremely sensual woman expresses herself here in the highly perfumed aura of a Florentine scent. With the immediate resonance and sustenance of a certain delicateness like that of lingerie on the skin, this Dolce & Gabbana perfume deploys itself like a saving grace accompanying a magnificent woman. “The light is always on her [the one]. It’s as if she were the only woman in the room,” explains Domenico Dolce.

The One opens with a headnote of bergamot that sparkles upon contact with mandarin orange. This instant luminosity remains light when softened upon contact with peach and lychee syrup. The heart is stronger, truer, perhaps purer: a floral bouquet composed with timeless white flowers like madonna lily, lily of the valley, and jasmine. This bouquet evokes passion, femininity, elegance, and grace. Within its wake is a profound sensuality marked by ripe plums melting in the seductive humidity of refined Mediterranean vetiver water.

Gabrielle’s Exceptionalism Captured in Baccarat Crystal

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“Chanel is turning a new page in their story. A new name. A new flask. A new perfume. A new territory of expression and inspiration.” This is how Chanel introduced their brand new perfume weeks earlier. Gabrielle, the new scent from the house on rue Cambon, is a sunny perfume imagined by Olivier Polge. A bouquet radiates through the heart of the perfume – it’s composed of four white flowers to deliver an olfactory vibration and a bright power. Jasmine, ylang-ylang, orange blossom, and Grasse tuberose create the scent of Coco Chanel’s liberty, ardor, and strength.

Today, or rather on November 3, the brand released a brand new and exceptional version of the perfume Gabrielle – this perfume is held in a flask that was specially imagined by Baccarat. Perfumers and master glassblowers teamed up to produce an ultra-luxurious limited edition, transforming the bottle into a precious crystal gem. It’s no longer a flask, but a collector’s object, engraved and blown by Baccarat’s master glassmakers.

This is an exceptional edition for an exceptional perfume. Cut like a diamond with a unique breed of savoir-faire, the flask for Gabrielle is adorned with a square tag and topped off with a hand-sealed stopper. Each piece is custom made. Even better, this majestic bottle will only be produced in 24 copies – 24 being a go-to number in the Chanel universe. This flask thus becomes the vessel for the prodigious nectar, the imaginary bouquet, that is the Gabrielle scent.

Serge Lutens about Ambre Sultan and Perfumes

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Serge Lutens, what made you want to create Ambre sultan

The origin of its creation is lost in time, but let’s just say that it was during my first trip to Morocco, around March 1968, that I found a box containing an interesting, alluring wax in Marrakech’s souks. Soon, this scent became the very odor of the trip. Time has passed and still today I have that scented box somewhere that is the base of Ambre sultan… and I would even say, of everything that brands are now calling, neo-poetically, “Oriental perfumery”. For me, Ambre sultan is an Arabic perfume, and I’m proud of that!

How did you first imagine it? 

Ambre sultan belongs to the past, and that doesn’t interest me. It’s been almost 20 years since it was created, not for the finality of the product, but for the ambiance and the identity it conveys. Ambre sultan is to me just as it presents itself in the flask. I didn’t imagine it otherwise. The best is still to smell it and feel it.

What sort of beauty is characteristic of Ambre sultan

Beauty is so different according to each person that it’s difficult to bring it up in such a general way. I’ll talk about this perfume’s sensations rather, for at the time of its release, it truly provoked a shock wave in perfumery the likes of which no one was expecting! You have to remember that at that time, at the beginning of the 90s, perfume in general was a socio-cultural product: a bona fide marketing soup. Ambre sultan and Féminité du Bois proposed a return to the very essence of things, which was new. That being said, today we’ve unfortunately fallen into the opposite extreme where the originality of a creation only comes from the cost and the “nobility” of the primary materials used. We’re actually witnessing these TV competition shows with ridiculous fops and “learned women” where all that’s missing is a button you press to be the first to show off what you know in that domain.

Could Baudelaire’s poem “Perfume” explain Ambre sultan, from a point of view of the sensations sought after and conveyed by this fragrance – travel, memory, sensuality, intimacy, and temptation?

With Baudelaire, like with every writer, it’s the perfume of the work that interests me, not perfume in and of itself. Each Baudelaire poem delivers the following message: I like what you don’t like. I like what others hate… No, Baudelaire’s poems can’t be limited to perfumes, at the risk of falling – like I already said once – into perfumery’s Baudelairama. It’s too easy to use him to talk about a product. On the other hand, the spirit of the message: “I like what you hate” whether delivered by Baudelaire or Genet, is always present within me.

What does perfume mean to you? 

My identity at the time I’m making it; a bit like for the perfume La fille de Berlin where I made a declaration to anger, to its beauty. Every creation originates from a duplication within me.

Could it be said that your perfumes are at the crossroads of the arts you practice?

The expression of perfume is unique, felt in layers, unlike other crafts that I’ve practiced like cinema or photography. Perfume is something issued from intuition. It can’t be demonstrated otherwise. Each creation in that field announces a state within me; in a way, my color for the moment.

What is the best method of expression according to you?

The one that best leads you to what you want to say. This could happen through words, images, perfumes, but the best one in and of itself doesn’t exist. As proof, the writers that I like aren’t considered to be the greatest, but they are singular, and as such for me, incomparable. They invent a way of seeing for they can’t say it otherwise.

When one looks at your photographs, one can admire women that are distinguished, mysterious, lunar, and affirmed all at the same time. They’re fragile and strong, naked and adorned with a million colors. Is this play on ambivalence and female dichotomy your creative refrain?

If it was only a refrain, it would slow me down. These women, as Flaubert said of Madame Bovary, are “me”. They were the only way to placate what I had inside me. This duplication, thankfully, has not in any way allowed for my identification!

 

By Sebastien Girard.