Within the ambient wake of her collections, Miucci Prada often appears as an intellectual designer. Her wardrobe does indeed say as much as a political speech – Queen of not all being what it seems, the creative director of the eponymous brand has already earned her pedigree when it comes to bringing the ugly or the tacky into the fashion sphere. Her Fall/Winter 2017 went down the runway within a falsely kitsch and nostalgic decor – this space was dotted with alcoves filled with beds covered with faux fur and partitions adorned with various souvenirs, photo booth and Polaroid snapshots, or fashion stickers. Here Miuccia Prada composes a drawer-like universe where women are freed from all contingencies, rules, and shackles related to her female appearance.
These Prada pieces ooze desirability – this is a seductive femininity where a woman’s most obvious attributes are reinserted into a dissonant yet wildly sensual aesthetic grammar. By perfectly mastering the DNA of sexy glamour, next season’s Prada woman is able to obliterate these to bring the world a look that’s more experimental than it is perfectly adequate. This dizzying mix of fabrics and textures, colors and attributes, gives way to a Prada collection that goes back to a more political past.
The models flawlessly mix ribbed velvet and knit bras, ostrich feather ushankas and cocktail dresses embroidered with drop beads, pale sink satin sheaths, or mustard and blue strapped thigh boots. Petrol blue is the key color for next season: it confronts tones of a bright burned orange-brown on a leather coat embellished with pearls and hemmed with fringes and studs. There’s a dreamy and rebellious side to it, making it the cornerstone piece in the Prada collection.