The Spring/Summer 2018 season is making way for a maximum interpretation of Gucci codes. Ever since Alessandro Michele took over as head of creation, the label has once more become synonymous with opulence and extravagance – a kaleidoscopic wardrobe that spreads its delight far beyond the front row. For this new season, the creative director is signing off on a collection that shamelessly mixes Gucci’s 80s heritage with sportswear, tribal, and baroque influences. But Alessandro Michele often takes precious inspiration from sources further back in time. For Spring/Summer 2018, the artist is going back to ancient times to question the very notion of beauty. Inside Gucci’s new headquarters in Milan, the runway became the Tiber river while all around the stage grand reproductions of nature recalled that we’re surrounded by sacralized statutes. The runway booklet explained that this is a discussion of the “act of creation” and its subsequent “act of resistance”.
Once more, Alessandro Michele is fusing the old school DNA of Gucci with contemporary desires and, in a whirlwind of gloves, sequins, and out-of-this-world hats, a whole new generation enters into a more casual fashion. When asked about his collection, Gucci’s creative director explained: “In the beginning, it was something that allowed me to reflect my idea of beauty. Now it’s beyond beauty. It’s a state of mind.” And Gucci’s state of mind for next season resides in the idea of reviving the past, just like a knitted sweater where the sentence “Never Marry a Mitford” appears, originally pronounced by the 11th Duke of Devonshire about his wife Mitford, who in turn are the grandparents of model Stella Tennant. But the most iconic look in this runway was #9.
The legendary Gucci GG canvas appears upside down – printed or transparent, it’s proof of the Florentine label’s attachment to their codes. Every season the GG motif is dressed in new prints and motifs. But this time, the GG canvas becomes a separate fabric in its own right. Each of these accumulated pieces is a puzzle to be completed, fused, or that simply creates the ultimate piece for Spring/Summer 2018.