Dries Van Noten’s Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection was anything bit a nostalgic reflex for the label’s 100th runway. On the catwalk: Kirsten Owen, Guinevere van Seenus, Tasha Tilberg, Trish Goff, Carolyn Murphy, and Michelle Hicks were all called upon by the designer personally, seeking to capture and honor the past of one of the most inspired houses in the fashion world. Digging into the brand’s past, Dries Van Noten knew what he was after: “We exaggerated certain volumes, but the shapes are rather basic, very comfortable, more current than ever.”
The result is simple and magnificent all at once: fabulous coats, pleated pants, and jackets to mix and match. By avoiding a ‘retrospective’ vibe, Dries Van Noten modernized and unified his selection by playing largely with bold motifs. Graphic motifs, big yellow and blue circles, and orange and green triangles are made like the engraved motifs of Sonia Delaunay. As per usual at DVN, the perfection and classicism of the cuts balance the lyrical flight of the prints.
The key piece in the runway is this flamboyant coat worn by Caroline de Maigret. Between a classic piece and a contemporary motif, the mix reaches an uncanny level of desirability as the designer brings fabrics into a dialogue. A sensuality and femininity can be found in the satin, while a masculine cut gives it style and a casual feeling. Flat oranges and a swarm of graphics are the proof that fashion is an art when it comes to transmitting or exalting an emotion.