The Artistic Coat by Fendi Fall/Winter 2017-2018

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Karl Lagerfeld wanted this collection to draw attention to what makes Fendi a brand in a realm all its own – its craftsmanship and unparalleled work with fur. The Fun Fur logo has disappeared and leaves room for a collection with extremely worked pieces, thought up like a sheath for the body. Jackets in Prince-of-Wales checks are borrowed from the male wardrobe and accompany sleek caramel fur jackets straight out of the Roman bourgeoisie.

The women imagined by Karl Lagerfeld have a reserved appearance, with their dresses and skirts systematically going below the knee. In control, sexy, intriguing, flamboyant, this spectacular woman is a woman of power. She is the master of her own destiny, with an ultra-luxurious silhouette anchored in unparalleled technical prowess. Next season’s Fendi woman is thought of as “the old image of a Roman woman who’s smoking in her mink with huge earrings, but taken forward by a contemporary cast, this wardrobe takes on a whole new meaning when anchored in the present day.”

On this artistic coat, an X appears on each side of the waistline as if to draw attention to the technique more than the piece’s beauty. This technique is also honored by Lagerfeld himself: the stitch is a deep one, set in place by various cross shapes. There’s also a double shoulder in this piece, making for a graphic effect put in perspective by the stitching on the sleeves that begins at a later point on the fabric itself. The spectacular side of this piece isn’t immediately apparent; in fact, it’s astutely hidden for only the trained eye to perceive.

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