Maria Grazia Chuiri delivered a daring vision of the Dior codes through technology— absolute icon of this vocabulary, the Dior Bar jacket appears deconstructed… Its iconic “cotton patches” which used to structure the New-Look line have been moved!
Dior Bar jacket: the iconic Dior piece enters a new era
The Dior Bar jacket is unquestionably the strongest piece in Dior’s portfolio. An absolute icon, it also symbolizes the emergence of the Christian Dior style which conquered the shoulders of the women keeping up with trends.
And while a new era, more digital and technological, seems to be upon us, the current creative director of the brand has chosen to insert the Dior codes into this new world. “We have this idea that technology is something just a little bit unreal, we use technology more for communication, and think less about how it can help us to live better. We are used to expecting it in very practical things: washing machines, but not fashion.” Chuiri said.
To merge Dior fashion and the technological spirit of web 3.0 together, Maria Grazia Chuiri teamed up with D-Air Lab, an Italian company specializing in technology that manufactures safe and functional clothing and materials for sport and industry… The result ? Dior pieces cleverly combining technological gimmicks and haute couture dexterity.
The Bar Dior jacket, the centerpiece of the New-Look which revolutionized the industry in 1947, was reinvented in a deconstructed fashion… Letting its structure appear to better change its function.
The Bar Jacket features a shapely silhouette; and the icon evokes the crinolines of the 19th century. But in 1947, on the eve of his show, Christian Dior’s first fittings on model Tania were a complete failure. The Basques fall flat. The effect on the hips was insignificant… Dior then had the idea of using surgical cotton sheets that he folded like an accordion to create the desired volume. And it worked!
These same surgical cotton patches inspired the visible basques on the Fall/Winter 2022 version of the Dior Bar jacket.
Another symbolic element of this collection is the return of the Roger Vivier shoes for Dior and the houndstoothpattern!
Associated to the New-Look line and renowned basques adored by the founder of Dior, the houndstooth pattern is elevated to futuristic glamour. A symbolic vision of Dior, adapted to digital and sports culture. Maria Grazia Chuiri goes further in this aspect by reinventing the mythical Louis XV heels, initially created by Roger Vivier in the 50s.
The man, nicknamed the “Fragonard of shoes”(after the famous painter), worked for a long time with Christian Dior. Roger Vivier not only dressed the feet of the Queen of England for her coronation, he was also able to demonstrate a bit more daring creativity for Dior.
These Louis XV heels are found on the feet of the models at Dior F/W 2022– but more edgy-looking with technical straps around the ankle, pearls and colors ranging from yellow to purple!
Telling You More About… The Bar Suit
Dior Couture 2022: The Ivory Bar Suit
Bar suit, Dior Manifesto Jacket…
Houndstooth and Bar Suit: The Sustainable Dior Vision For Spring/Summer 2020
Dior’s Bar Suit goes Gold for Winter 2018- 2019 Haute Couture
The Christian Dior Bar Suit