The Chanel Métiers d’Art 2021 show once again magnified the codes initiated by Coco Chanel – tweed and camellia thus appeared to be worked according to the rare know-how of these crafts.
Symbolic Camellia and Sequin Tweed Suit
The Chanel Métiers d’Art 2021 fashion show was held in the heart of a new highly symbolic place for Chanel. A gigantic workshop where the fabulous crafts of Chanel are now gathered – called 19M and located in the XIXth arrondissement of Paris, the site is now the headquarters of the Lesage and Montex embroiderers; the shoemaker Massaro; of the genius of feathers and flowers that is Lemarié; the milliner Maison Michel; the Lognon plier; and the master of the great vagueness Paloma workshop, as well as the goldsmith Goossens!
And many of these first-rate artisans were already working with Chanel in the founder’s time!
On the parade side, we could find many of the Chanel codes distilled here and there according to the genius of these crafts. Among them, the iconic Tweed Suit is covered in sequins … Sequins which, in trompe-l’oeil, also formed the camellia – Coco’s favorite flower.
The collection, as Virginie Viard, the artistic director of Chanel explains, was “very urban while remaining sophisticated, with tweed jackets with sweatshirt sleeves, graffiti-style embroidery in colored beads by Lesage, Bermuda shorts. voluminous knitwear in purple or harsh blue, and casual coats worn open. Many of the embroidery is inspired by the structure of the building itself, such as those of Montex, very graphic and in silver sequins. “
A true ode to those crafts that were in danger of disappearing without the intervention of Chanel in the 90s, the 2021 collection also shows the use of shades so dear to Coco. Like a meeting between the present, the future and the Chanel heritage … Beige, black, white and, above all, pearls, in particular affixed to the top of the heel of two-colored babies.
Quilting also found a new expression in this puffer jacket, embellished with chic silver edging, oh possible!
On the silhouette side this time, it is the masculine-feminine allure of Chanel that has thrilled the guests on the floor. 59 silhouettes, including a fluid and sensual version of the Chanel uniform – a white shirt, black cigarette pants and a transparent black silk chiffon coat, all punctuated by a black boater!