References to a 70s palette, artsy, a bit vintage with a twist… It was a creational coincidence for Miuccia Prada: “I didn’t want to do the 70s,” she declared backstage of her Milan runway on Sunday night. “But it came like that, naturally. It was an important period for contesting, for humanity. Which is more than necessary today.” There’s a touch of mastery in this proposition, as is to be expected with Prada. This is the no doubt the irony that was previously missing. Just like she did in the 90s, it’s in decors and kitsch elements that Prada got the prints and lines for next winter’s silhouettes. The decor was from studio Rem Koolhaas and oddly resembled a waiting room, a psychiatrist’s office, or even a psychiatric hospital… but the discerning eye might also guess a love hotel for philandering couples, with large beds dispersed here and there.
It’s within this decor that an indifferent mix of women and men went down the runway in clothing worn with a sense of normality. Men are reuniting with ribbed velvet, preferably orange, while women are cozying up in mohair and perched on open-toed shoes worn with socks – introduced by Miuccia Prada herself. “After a series of grandiose, complex, exaggerated runways, I felt the need to do the opposite, to be simple, human, modest,” confided stylist Miucci Prada.
This is one way to throw in nods to the overturning of labels that Prada is such a master of. By searching for a naive complex from the very start, the brand’s creative director has created a collection with pieces each more iconic than the next. Take for instance this coat made like a patchwork of furs, tying around a flattering design with shades that don’t normally go together.