The suit, as we all know, was the key piece in Gabrielle Chanel’s vocabulary. Ever since Karl Lagerfeld awoke the sleeping beauty that was Chanel, the suit has been found with a number of fabrics, styles, and trends. With haute couture, the exploration of the piece’s infinite possibilities has often been the occasion to introduce pieces as arresting as they are technically stunning. This season, Karl Lagerfeld is imposing a new version of his couture wardrobe by once more putting the accent on decor, with a gigantic recreation of Coco Chanel’s ateliers.
The label’s new silhouette takes inspiration from Giacometti’s sculptures, most notably the Spoon Woman, a 1927 work that reveals both African tribal art and abstraction. Now the ‘spoon suit’, the legendary piece in the double-C brand’s wardrobe fits into a line with curved hips that’s extremely marked at the waist and draws out the contours of the Chanel woman. These proportions are unexpected to say the least. The iridescent white and pink tweed suit dress with a matching boater, white leather belt, silver leather pumps with a mirrored effect, and a pearl ankle bracelet to top it off is without a doubt next season’s must-have. “A shoulder line and a lifted waist elongates the legs. There’s no figurative embroidery, only “sparklings” that are lunar, like shards of glass. Just one piece of jewelry – a pearl necklace around the ankle – and a boater revisited with a flattened top,” concludes Karl Lagerfeld backstage. He said it all.