The companion booklet indicated: “Haute couture expresses a sacred notion made to be perceived as something that goes beyond reality.” Pierpaolo Piccioli, the brand’s creative director, thus introduced a FallWinter 2018 couture collection with a sometimes ascetic elegance that’s tinged with Valentino’s incredible craftsmanship when it comes to working with embroidered dresses. In Paris, the brand took off on a quest for sacred: the monastic silhouettes that have characterized the Valentino woman for several seasons are now retracing the Imperial silhouettes of beauties of yesteryear. But make no mistake, Pierpaolo Piccioli is offering resolutely modern dresses that are highly symbolic with a burning desirability.
Valentino’s creative director expressed a sort of creative serenity through this vestal wardrobe. In addition, a series of clutches made in collaboration with Kola artist Harumi Klossowski each represent one of the seven deadly sins through a distinct animal. But the most iconic piece in this Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2018 collection is a long twill and mohair dress perfected by quilted embroidery and guipure lace. This monastical sweetness is given touches of color, Pierpaolo’s signature. Emerald, earthen tones, and cyan blue – these touches anchor the piece in Valentino’s timelessness.
Valentino’s couture collection is today evolving into a highly sensual minimalism. A year after the departure of acolyte Maria Grazia Chiuri, this couture seems to go back to the essence of the brand itself rather than the archives. “For me, the work of the artisans and Italian craftsmanship are primordial,” explained Pierpaolo Piccioli. “That’s what allows me to assimilate these codes to better break and redefine them.”
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