As a child, Jean-Louis Scherrer dreamed of becoming a dancer and would soon dedicate his time to dancing, his first talent. At the National Conservatory in Paris, he was familiarized with the female body in a quasi-organic way. But an accident diverted him from his first career choice. Encouraged by his mother, he drew, with the same audacity, dresses mainly. Fashion would finally prove the means for him to satisfy his passion for beauty. He sharpened his pencil and revived the sensibilities of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne’s rules, getting a diploma from them in 1956. Then, he learned the technical side of Haute Couture in Saint-Laurent era Dior. He only stuck around for a year; after the death of the founder, he would accompany Yves Saint-Laurent to his brand. In 1962, his dream came true when he founded his own brand, which would be based at 51, Avenue Montaigne from 1971 onwards. That same year, it received the official distinction of being “Haute Couture”. For his first collection, he made the models walk down a runway in the basement of a Parisian wine merchant. Animal print, floral, or polka-dot cocktail dresses cut in flowing fabrics came together with the raw elegance of the gems that served as their setting. His fascination for the Bahaus era oriented him towards a more graphic style. From that moment on, Haute Couture regulars were conquered by this man who dressed up women with such taste, this man that seemed like the guarantor of Parisian chic on a quest for post-modernity.
In the 80s, his label reached new heights. 250 customers ordered more than 1,000 dresses from him. This huge success was topped off by the winning of a Dé d’Or prize for his 1980 “Russe” collection. What is his DNA made of? Polka dots, leopard print, a cinched waist and markedly large shoulders. His inspiration is a melting pot of cultures, from the rajahs of India to the Czarinas of Saint Petersburg without forgetting the eternal court of Buckingham. Variegated, his creations flirted with the all too abundant elegance of the era. Sensuous luxury and femininity are synonymous with Scherrer style. He would find himself dressing up the greatest female figures of the era like Jackie Kennedy, Anne-Aymone Giscard d’Estaing, Rachel Wech, Michel Morgan, Noor of Jordan, Farah Diba, or even Isabelle Adjani, who wore one of his creations when she received the Best Actress Award at Cannes in 1981. In 2008, the brand disappeared, while in that same year EllePage put on a vintage Jean-Louis Scherrer dress for the Oscars. The brand did not survive Scherrer’s absence in the early 90s. The shareholder’s doing or a voluntary exit? Speculation still abounds.
“What Yves Saint Laurent was to the left bank, Jean-Louis Scherrer was to the right bank.” This is an undeniable truth for Stéphane Rolland, the label’s creative director for 10 years. After Christian Dior, Guy Laroche, Yves Saint Laurent, Louis Féraud, and Pierre Balmain, he is now the latest to have passed away this past June 20th, 2013, after a long illness. Interred in the Père-Lachaise cemetery, he has without a doubt closed the door, for a time, at least, on the universe of Parisian elegance and opulence.
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