1967. Valentino Garavani was already one of the most talented couturiers in the Parisian fashion scene when he composed a collection of 12 dresses for Jackie Kennedy. 12 pieces, made in white, as the future Jackie O. had just ordered her wedding dress. When the ex-First Lady entered the chapel in October 1968, her short ivory lace dress became a global emblem of style. This translated into success for the couturier as well, who decided one year later to dedicate an entire collection to this anti-color, an attribute of distinction.
“For me, white is a color. It’s the lightness of summer, purity,” expresses Valentino Garavani. The inspiration for his ‘White’ collection presented in Florence thus came from Jackie Onassis Kennedy, his friend, considered to be the ideal woman: elegant and extremely sophisticated. “She inspired me, supported me during difficult times. With her style, she was able to get people talking about me by getting them to talk about her.” But through his muse, Valentino joined an adoration for his craft, his passion, his work. Garavani called the White collection “my declaration of love for couture.” This says it all.
White is indeed a challenging color, just like the art of couture. White doesn’t leave any room for error- the smallest imperfection becomes a catastrophe. But white is also a dream. It’s the memory of “an old box of white lace given by the Countess Asti to one of my aunts. It was ravishing,” tells Valentino. His great discipline combines with the use of noble, light, and precious materials: organza, embroidered organdy, tulle, georgette embroidered with stars… In September 1968, Vogue would write: “All of Europe is talking about Valentino’s white. The purity, the distinction of these whites that are so crisp, so white, so refined, these soft creamy whites, shown together white on white. All of this is a triumph for this 35 year old couturier who, by unleashing so much beauty, romance, and perfection, has become the idol of youth, a new symbol of contemporary luxury…” Fifty years later, white is definitively one of the favorite signatures of a brand whose creations are ever more refined.
The Valentino style favors the contrasts between black and white, offering elegant and fluid cuts. Pierpaolo Piccioli, however, offers other subtle nuances such as the legendary red. He does not hesitate to bring in a pale or brighter pink for his Spring/Summer collection 2017.
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