In 2018 it celebrated it’s 50 years, the Polaris was a great revolution for not only the world of diving but also in the lives of aesthetes.
When we talk about the most famous of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s timepieces it is without doubt that the Reverso comes first in our minds. However, if we want to find out which is the most revolutionary watch of Jaeger-LeCoultre we would find the answer with the Polaris. How come? The watch was a true innovation in the history of watchmaking: a watch that – for the first time – made the alarm function an indispensable signal for distinguished divers.
Hence in the 1960s, the Jaeger-LeCoultre watchmakers worked on the diving concept of “Memovox”, in latin – “the voice of memory”. The idea? To make the alarm function a vital part of diving. The workshops of the Swiss maison worked for eight years on the creation of the perfect watch: the 1968 Memovox Polaris would become an icon. It must be noted that its assets work to its advantage – a 42mm casing that facilitates the reading of the hour, a triple case-back system, a more resonant alarm, and a third very watertight crown. What’s missing? Absolutely nothing.
With their strong expertise, the watchmakers at Jaeger-LeCoultre were able to set a new stage in the history of watchmaking techniques – the triple case-back system would allow the impossible. Under water, the voice of memory calls back to the divers when it is time to come back to the surface – the Memovox resounds like never before! The optimal diffusion of sound under water is made possible by the novel shape of the inclined case that prevents the potential pitfall stifling of the sound through contact with the dive suit.
Baptised with a name din direct resonance with the great adventures of the 1960s, the Polaris incarnates the journey of going beyond the possible. Oceanographic discoveries, space exploration, expeditions to the Poles – it defied all the challenges! Hence in 2018, the Memovox Polaris celebrated its 50th anniversary and the maison Jaeger-LeCoultre dedicated the watch an entire collection.
“I wanted it to be the sport-chic watch par excellence. The timepiece that you can wear daily! I wanted to find both the comfort and simplicity of use of what I call a “montre a vivre” as the complications of the watch are useful, simple and efficient and it’s alarm function is quite practical for arranging the time of a meeting!” explains Lionel Favre, the talent that contributed to the new Polaris watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The result?
A new line with elegant sophistication and sportiness, contributing to the attributes of an icon with a very contemporary character. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris presents an even more beautiful version in steel but limited to 1000 pieces. The back of its case is decorated with an engraving depicts a diving suit – the very diving suit that would come to decorate the original 1968 model. Placing the Polaris in the ranks of the most desirable pieces signed by the expertise of the vallée de Joux!
Launched In 2016 In Its Quartz Version, AIKON By Maurice Lacroix Sticks Out In 35mm, Automatic; when not dazzling the experts with its Mercury mechanism.
Behind its name, one can see the willing of Managing Director, Stéphane Waser, to add a core product to Maurice Lacroix repertoire. « In 2014, while traveling, lots of people told us ‘Make a Calypso. Make a Calypso’ So we try few designs and we immediately understood that we had a big potential here. The design of this piece was truly interesting. There was a field to explore. » However, the Calypso as such is a bit too minimal for our time. That’s how, starting from the iconic design of this 90’s Maurice Lacroix hit, the house succeeded in creating the AIKON.
A snappy name, phonetically translatable in all languages, a graphic shape that intrigues — the stage is set for an icon. AIKON’s lines drew inspiration from the Calypso; yet within its 35 mm version, those same lines became truly relevant. As a feminine watch highly charismatic — the AIKON 35mm clashes the norms with its links and butterfly clasp. Whether in duochrome or clou de Paris piqué, the AIKON 35mm sticks for its franc subtlety!
Moreover, Maurice Lacroix AIKON flirts with everybody’s dream: the power to suspend time. Mercury AIKON here reveals Maurice Lacroix’s true savoir-faire: the new movement plays with gravity to, when you feel like, suspend the course of time. « We could have been very ‘watchmaker’ in a sense of developing whirls and repeaters. But it’s not the spirit of this Maurice Lacroix timepiece. So we end up with this completely new movement — very technical, yes, but mostly poetic » said Stéphane Waser. It is true that a watch, which allows to be out of time, has everything to become the icon of this new era!
Famed Argentine shoemaker Casa Fagliano is teaming up with the great watchmaking brand Jaeger-LeCoultre to create an exceptional watch. In 2018, the Reverso Tribute Duoface demonstrated the delicateness of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s craftsmanship as well as its ability to work in contrasts. The Duoface concept is pushed to the limit here as it presents two dials with a refined design, each equipped with a different timezone. This discreet and timeless elegance is captured in a rose gold case. The color heats up the two-tone cordovan leather bracelet created by Casa Fagliano’s illustrious artisans. Founded in 1892, this brand works with soft and supple leathers that are reputed for their resistance and respect for ancestral tradition.
Once the legendary Reverso pendulum is activated, the wonders of LeCoultre’s expertise attracts the gaze. On the reverse side, the satiny slate grey dial is equipped with hand-applied indexes that echo out to the dauphine hands. Its geometric lines, typical of Art Deco, reflect the watch’s ‘1931’ inspiration. Then, the reverse side reveals itself just as local time presents itself in a silver dial. The night/day indicator also highlights the presence of rounded lines: this trait gives a touch of personality to this object of character.
Next year, the Reverso Tribute Duoface will be distributed in 100 copies – 100 timepieces only to highlight the exclusivity of this collaboration between two artisanal giants. Engraved on the back of the watch, the note “Limited Edition – One of 100” highlights even more the absolute refinement given off by its lines and composition. This prodigious piece will delight collectors, and is available now only in Jaeger-LeCoultre stores.
Donatella Versace knows exactly the right accessory to transform a look and bring it into the realm of perfection. It’s in this spirit that the aesthetics of these Leda timepieces appear. These timepieces are full of Versace character: the 38mm stainless steel dial is pleasantly framed by a Greek engraved bezel, while the crown is also engraved with one of the emblems of Versace. As another sign of Versace detail and attitude, the bezel is finished with polished textures that resemble Leda’s key of infinity with a repetition of motifs.
In 2002, Omega released a brand new collection of Seamaster timepieces – the Aqua Terra was born as an homage to the spirit of the original Seamaster. Reputed for its reliability in water or on land, the Aqua Terra, as its name would indicate, honors all the special features of the brand’s iconic timepieces.
2017, Omega revealed a brand new Seamaster Aqua Terra collection. Its distinguishing feature? This was indeed a sports watch, but it was elegant and made for any situation. The new Aqua Terra presents a refined case and a background that appears in the shape of waves. For the female version, diamonds appear as index hands on Omega’s precious timepiece.
To promote these new watches, the manufacturer called on athletes like Morgan Lagravière, French navigator, to test the timepiece in real-life conditions. This is the strength of Omega’s marketing: bringing together a circle of watch enthusiasts primarily composed of top-level athletes for a swanky event in their Paris store.
From 1980 onward, Carlo Crocco began defying all conventions in terms of watchmaking for Hublot. No more rules of the trade; with the Big Bang, the manufacturer introduced the first black natural rubber bracelet. Each new watch is the occasion to push the limits of watchmaking aesthetics even further, and Hublot would thus quickly acquire the reputation of being an alchemist with different materials. Today, Hublot’s watches have an aura that have founded the inspiration for the timepieces of an entire era. Now for the first time, the legendary Hublot watch is taking the engraving for its sapphire background from an atypical tradition – Día de los Muertos.
Just as the 10th edition of SIAR Mexico is gearing up, Hublot is bringing its new timepiece into an aesthetic that defies morbidity. Classified as intangible cultural heritage since 2008, Día de los Muertos, contrary to what its name would indicate, is a celebration of life. It’s a joyful and colorful fiesta that’s now taking on the Big Bang. The watch, its dial, its bezel, and its bracelet are all getting engraved with a ‘calavera’, the famous Mexican skull motif. 44 mm of diameter honor this tradition that comes from the Aztecs: a skull that’s this time signed Hublot sports floral and chiseled motifs, engraved into the material like embroidery.
Loyal to their reputation as an alchemist, manipulating different materials with gusto, Hublot is here paying homage to life. “Wearing a representation of a ‘calavera’ on your wrist means being conscious that death is part of life, and that you have to take advantage of every moment we have. It’s also a message of hope, just as the Mexicans intended it, of continuity. At Hublot, we appreciate this festive and positive approach to Día de los Muertos,” said Ricardo Guadalupe, the brand’s CEO. These limited editions of the new Big Bang Calaveras are presented with 3 styles available in only 30 copies. With 20 made of steel and 10 of red gold, these timepieces are symbols of liberty. No other watch can claim to compete with the splendor of the Day of the Dead.
The arrival of the new Mini D Dior Rose des Vents in stores is also the occasion for the brand to release the latest episode of this series dedicated to the D collection. This line is special in that it ties together past and present within a pirouette that unites Christian Dior’s passion for colors and the strange tastes of Victoire de Castellane, who’s fascinated by contrasts. The D collection incarnates all the spirit of the jewelry division of 30 avenue Montaigne. Bold, creative, and surprising associations bring out a watchmaking savoir-faire as precise as it is astonishing. In 2003, Victoire de Castellane, creative director for Dior Jewelry, imagined a collection of timepieces with a romantic gesture: a woman taking a man’s watch so that she’ll always think of him. The D by Dior was born, in line with watches from the 70s – at Dior, gold, diamond, and ornamental stones espouse the seeming simplicity of contemporary materials.
This masculine chic touched up by a confident femininity becomes an object composed by Victoire de Castellane and shines with its own magic touch. A series of accompanying mini-animations also has a similar charm. Since Victoire de Castellane likes to play with the totems that were evocative of Christian Dior’s life to create her pieces, she’s now paying homage to the Rose des Vents (or “compass rose”) with a brand new style. This Rose des Vents can be traced back to the couturier’s childhood in Granville, France. Found in his house nicknamed Les Rhumbs, the name comes from the 32 divisions of the rose navigation symbol that appears on a compass. In 2017, Victoire de Castellane turned it into something more.
This magic is told through the latest episode of a series dedicated to the D. The Mini D Rose des Vents was imagined with a 19 mm stainless steel case, a rice grain bezel highlighted by a millegrain and a diamond-encrusted crown. Its malachite dial includes a metal mobile rose des vents that animates the entire composition. Victoire de Castellane is bringing Monsieur Dior on a journey through time. This journey, from pre-historic times to the future, is illustrated in a poetic and entertaining way, through the dream that the new Mini D Rose des Vents bears within it.
Designed in 2003 by Victoire de Castellane, the D by Dior quickly established itself with its masculine look and purified forms. Inspired by the 70s, the creative director for Dior Jewelry described it as the timepiece “of a woman who uses a men’s watch to always think of him.” On the front side, the D divulges a simplistic shape and integrates a number of exceptional watchmaking materials; on the reverse side, the watch reveals a more playful style with the presence of noble and eternal gems. The D by Dior incarnates the poetic spirit of the Monsieur, all while revealing his creative audacity through a symbiosis of colors and materials. The D by Dior bears in itself the signature of the feminine universe of Dior fine jewelry.
In 2011, Dior revisited its mythic watch in the form of a subtly graded rainbow. The D by Dior Color is an icon that radiates with a minute choice of stones and the fusion of the colors of each gem. This surprising creation was topped off by a white gold casing equipped with a manually-rewinding Elite movement by Zenith. A rare and precious piece, the D by Dior Color conserves the attributes of the classic watch, uniting a jeweler’s savoir-faire with the elegance of the watchmaker’s craft.
In 2015, the French brand is unveiling three new styles of the Mini D. But this time, Dior is playing with shades of iridescent hues. This timepiece, who’s bezel, crown, and prong buckle are all encrusted with diamonds, is mounted on a stainless steel casing. Victoire de Castellane enchants her creation with playful and romantic reflections. Whatever time it is, whatever hour, second, or lighting conditions, the reverberation of the veal leather bracelets illuminates the wrist with bright feminine bursts of gold, pink, and silver. A technical and artistic collection that gives free reign to creativity.
From 1997 to 2003, Martin Margiela was at the reins of creative direction for Hermès. Through 12 years of collections, the designer that is today the most influential of his generation laid the foundations for a neutral palette playing with textures of white, ivory, beige, brown, and black. Today, the brand still swears by this. And yet, the Belgian designer’s greatest introduction remains an accessory that has since become an icon within Hermès’ very DNA: the double tour bracelet. Imagined for Cape Code in 1997, it would soon become a part of Hermès watchmaking’s iconic vocabulary. The Heure H watch was composed a year later under the impetus of designer Philippe Mouquet.
Hermès is taking on time and making it an object issued from exigent craftsmanship. The Heure H watch can be understood as the perfect accomplice to its wearer. Between the lines of a letter, Hermès captures the flow of time. The Heure H watch is beyond all norms – daily life becomes a game, as a moment suspends its frantic race forward to make way for a time that’s all one’s own. In over 20 years of existence, this timepiece has soared to the ranks of a watchmaking icon. Singular, serious yet fantastic, the Heure H watch is an intense symbol using creativity and modernism with the Arceau watch, an other Hermes’ icon.
This joyous and bold style is today being reinvented in a white or black lacquer version. The iconic H is now covered with a translucent varnish. The Heure H watch has long cultivated beauty from paradox; now with the bracelet’s newest colors, the watch is becoming more mischievous as well. There are eight different versions, each boasting the deft nobility of Hermès, enchanting the colors and profound sobriety of the dial. Bright red, orange, yellow, and blue all encounter a simple or double tour. This new version of unfailing time comes in two different sizes.
2002: Louis Vuitton enters into the watchmaking universe and, for the first time, the trunk maker releases its very own watch. The Tambour was born, destined to become an icon. The Tambour is first and foremost a novel and poetic design that is exceptional by definition. Inspired by the drums of Kodo, the timepiece traces back the history of these ancestral Japanese percussion instruments. The name Tambour is also an homage to the very first miniature watch created in the Western world in 1540, the perfect occasion for Louis Vuitton to leave its mark on the watchmaking sector. The watch indeed would integrate all of the labels values into its design the 12 letters that compose the brand’s names are engraved onto the casing opposite each hour. In addition, the brown of the dial and the yellow of the second hands are a clear echo to the brand’s bags… Beyond these references, from the simple 3-hand quartz style to more complex variations, the Tambour has established itself as the principal of an identity, a signature uniting timeless allure and up-to-date technical performance. “Our ambition was to develop original functions, in line with Louis Vuitton’s values. The development of movements conceived by Louis Vuitton’s “Fabrique du Temps” workshop is the very essence of our future in watchmaking,” declared Hamdi Chatti, Vice-President of Watchmaking and Jewelry.
This worked essence is developed by the master watchmakers of this very same Louis Vuitton “Fabrique du Temps” manufacturer. Within a unique place, the brand assembles every craft and talent associated with the great tradition of watchmaking. This is how the Tambour is created, in a creative melting pot. With noble fantasy, the timepiece can be imagined without any hands. At Louis Vuitton, the passing of time is read on an indicator disk. In its rotating course, time has no limits or end point – the disk allows for an immediate reading of the hour in the desired timezone, since two graduations are juxtaposed one on top of the other. One lone hand, ending in a red arrow, instantly indicates the time. This is an apt summary of the Tambour revolution, a revolution that lives on at Baselworld 2015.
Three new styles completed the Tambour collection this year three avant-garde pieces crafted in a profound and captivating black. The Tambour Evolution GMT in Black sports a 43 mm steel casing, waterproof up to 100 meters deep, that also integrates an automatic LV71 mechanism for a reserve battery life of 42 hours, a two time slot memory with a day/night indicator, and a date display… More classic and nonetheless sophisticated, the version with brown and grey reflections establishes itself as an ultra-feminine style, in total harmony with the jewelry arts developed and perpetuated within the Louis Vuitton “Fabrique du Temps”. Never a faux pas. Among the iconic models in this collection, the Tambour LV277 automatic chronograph is the most technical and refined piece of the first collection with its sun effect and 18-carat rose gold hands.