{"id":76756,"date":"2022-05-12T02:55:11","date_gmt":"2022-05-12T00:55:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.icon-icon.com\/interview-steven-passaro-a-young-talent-to-follow-closely\/"},"modified":"2022-05-12T02:55:48","modified_gmt":"2022-05-12T00:55:48","slug":"interview-steven-passaro-a-young-talent-to-follow-closely","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.icon-icon.com\/en\/interview-steven-passaro-a-young-talent-to-follow-closely\/","title":{"rendered":"Interview: Steven Passaro, A Young Talent To Follow Closely"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Steven Passaro has been nominated for prestigious awards in the very closed fashion world, as in the LVMH Prize<\/a>, and is a young designer to follow closely. <\/p>\n\n

ased in Paris under his eponymous brand<\/a>since 2019, he offers a different approach to fashion. His wardrobe is mostly male, while incorporating more feminine codes. There follow collections inspired by tailoring<\/em>, but breaking traditional codes, playing on genres and cuts. <\/p>\n\n

In addition to a wardrobe with a strong visual identity, notably based on asymmetry, overlays and folds \u2013 already iconic \u2013 this one is truly committed from an ecological point of view. <\/p>\n\n

By using new technologies, through the use of 3D prototypes, it significantly reduces the use of raw materials and miles of tissue that would otherwise be wasted. He developed a concept called the Act of Growth<\/a><\/em>around the principle of the evolution of a garment. A piece with a unique origin, which the customer is invited to evolve as the seasons go by. Enough to keep its iconic piece, while remaining in the trend and without producing a 100% new garment. <\/p>\n\n

He mixes innovation and eco-responsibility \u2013 wouldn\u2019t that be the key to making ecology more attractive and glamorous? <\/p>\n\n

Forefront, responsible and modern, focused on new technologies, Steven Passaro has all the cards to become a future icon of fashion. <\/p>\n\n

Icon-Icon decided to meet with him to learn more. <\/p>\n\n

meeting with Steven Passaro <\/span><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n

To start and recontextualize for our readers, could you review your background and the concept behind your brand? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

I have a somewhat atypical background. I first studied space design at the Duperr\u00e9 school in Paris. During my internships, I developed a love for fashion and creation around textiles. I did my third-year internship at BTS at Dior, which opened the doors to this environment and allowed me to have the opportunity to look at the details of the clothes, to see how they were created. <\/p>\n\n

I then dropped out of space design, for a master\u2019s degree in men\u2019s fashion in London. <\/p>\n\n

When I returned to Paris in 2020, I launched my brand there. <\/p>\n\n

My desire was to redefine the way fashion is created and consumed, but also to express a new vision of the delicacy and sensitivity I can have in order to share it. <\/p>\n\n

A wardrobe that takes traditional masculine codes but that brings modernity, with a little more sensuality and sensitivity, more \u00abfemininity\u00bb, playing with the codes of gender.<\/p>\n\n

We can describe your wardrobe as gender fluid<\/em>, do you think that today, there is always a meaning in distinguishing male and female collections? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

Actually not because\u2014 If most people need to be reassured and to have references when they buy clothes, the new generations are in a different perspective: there is an item that I like and no matter where it supposed to belong. <\/p>\n\n

However, there is still a question of body morphology that is undeniable. <\/p>\n\n

I see it, for example, with women who try my clothe for men and tell me that it suits them super well, so it\u2019s quite fun to play with that.<\/p>\n\n

I worked with Miss Fame [editor\u2019s note<\/em>:a famous Drag Queen] and I thought it was great because we made a jacket originally for men but with a feminine side when she wears it, as Miss Fame So we worked on a piece that was more \u00abfit\u00bb, more feminine that she also wore as a male \u00abhim\u00bb and not as her persona<\/em>, I think it\u2019s great to play as much as possible on the genres. <\/p>\n\n

\"\"
steven passaro- ss22<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

When you create your collections, what are your primary inspirations? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

It\u2019s a very intuitive, very personal process. The first research that really inspired me was around the question of the \u201cself\u201d. I am thinking in particular of Gilles Deleuze\u2019s \u00abPhilosophy of the Fold\u00bb which sees the self as a composition of folds, of several facets, of several personalities or emotions and the way in which a universe is constructed around this question. There would finally be things that reveal themselves and hide, the fold becomes the interface: one inside, the other outside. <\/p>\n\n

With each collection, we will take a particular facet and continue to dig into this story. So, we started around a more fluid set of folds so with more freedom where the one coming inside of you becomes an introspection, then a resilience that is built in relation to that. <\/p>\n\n

Therefore, there\u2019s more exteriorization, and sometimes\u2014I\u2019m talking about me and my hypersensitivity\u2014these collections talk about emotions one doesn\u2019t want to feel. As a human being, we have a capacity to feel emotions one at a time, so if we block one, they\u2019re all blocked. As a result, we\u2019re not really living. <\/p>\n\n

\"\"
steven passaro- ss22<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

How is this hypersensitivity reflects itself in your work? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

This translates in different ways, what is positive today is that I am at a point in my life when this hypersensitivity has become a strenght and not a burden. Being always empathetic, hyper connected to everything, faced with a lot of information, takes time to digest, which can be exhausting. What could be more beautiful than transcending that and using it\u2026 The delicacy of having collections that bring back very soft, delicate things, with a very strong construction\u2026 so I play with and compose. <\/p>\n\n

We notice a great place for tailoring<\/em> in your collections, can you explain to us what you like so much and where this attraction comes from? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

I fell in love with tailoring<\/em>. I think it comes from my love of construction, since having worked on space and architecture. There is truly an architecture of the body when you make tailoring<\/em> vis-\u00e0-vis the tailor. <\/p>\n\n

When I did my internship at Dior, I always saw this Dior man expertise and I thought, \u201cI want to understand how it\u2019s done, all the layers you put inside, the interlining.\u201d I remember buying a jacket for private sale, which I completely opened to understand how it was made and then I thought I wanted to learn how to do that.<\/p>\n\n

I did pretty well. The funny thing is that I was watching a lot of YouTube videos, documentaries, and today, one of the people in those documentaries has become one of my mentors and a great friend. This is truly a great reward and recognition from the community.<\/p>\n\n

\"\"
steven passaro- ss22<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

You create your 3D models before launching your prototypes, how did you come up with this idea? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

I didn\u2019t want to create a brand just to create a brand. I had this personal and selfish desire to express myself in the clothing. But I wanted us to ask for the right questions. At the time, what shocked me was the number of canvases and prototypes that came out before making the final product. <\/p>\n\n

It\u2019s something very personal and related to my environmental sensitivity. Overconsumption and overproduction are issues that have been in my head for almost a decade now, and I was wondering how to deal with that when everything is being manufactured on the other side of the world. <\/p>\n\n

Made in France<\/em> is not really made in France, just like made in Italy.<\/em> I came across these new technologies in London, and I thought, I\u2019m going to go back to Paris, get in there and figure things out.<\/p>\n\n

So, i am kind of self-taught on the software part.<\/p>\n\n

When we know the ecological disaster that is coming, to launch a brand without any interest in this aspect seems absurd. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

PCould you go back to the \u201cAct of Growth\u201d project that you developed?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n

To be completely honest with you, I\u2019m currently putting everything under perspective. I feel like people are not quite ready. This is a big project, very difficult to implement in the face of the fast-fashion<\/em> industries that produce thousands of references a day.<\/p>\n\n

We are facing a psychological gap in terms of consumption. People found this project very interesting, so I am going to keep it aside. I think we will be able to develop it more when we have more visibility and \u201cfaithful\u201d clients.<\/p>\n\n

Originally, the objective was to create a garment that has an evolution that can be proposed after a certain time, which allows to have this feeling of novelty, while keeping its original product. Transform it visually and at a more attractive cost rather than buying it again. That\u2019s what I do: I buy a piece, which I love, but after a while I get a little tired of it. But in the end, if I had to buy something, it would be something similar since I know my style. <\/p>\n\n

\"\"
COAT ACT OF GROWTH<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

Indeed, the renewal of trends is extremely fast, and we find ourselves in a system of perpetual overconsumption. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

I would very much like to see this project come to fruition, if only through the relational aspect with our clients that affects me, that they come to see us again, that we work with them, even when we make custom-made special parts. I think it\u2019s very important to have that close relationship, especially since when i made people try them on I was told \u201c I do feel good in your clothes, it\u2019s comfortable, it\u2019s not tight and yet I\u2019m super elegant, there\u2019s movement inside!\u201d So I think, \u201cI did my job\u201d. It\u2019s something that\u2019s still there, but it\u2019s kind of on a break right now.<\/p>\n\n

You use new technologies for prototypes, 3D models, have you ever considered developing something around NFT?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n

For the last collection, we released five silhouettes that are really digital, since we work with a collaborator who creates fiting<\/em>technologies in augmented reality. They take our 3D and re-map them to the real 2D photos, which allows us to have a lookbook or \u00abInstagram photo\u00bb rendering, without having to spend a penny on product. <\/p>\n\n

I wanted these clothes to be in NFT, except that we arrived slightly late on the subject but we are really developing it. <\/p>\n\n

I would like that on our e-shop, when we buy the physical part we have the digital twin<\/em> which allows to authenticate the product and therefore to have his twin<\/em> in the metaverse, on a blockchain<\/em> so that there can be traceability and authentication later with content dedicated to that. <\/p>\n\n

Do you think this is a concept of the future? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

I think right now we\u2019re in a “buzz phase”, going all the way around, with billions of dollars being invested all over the place. <\/p>\n\n

We had a first metaverse fashion week<\/em> a few weeks ago, and I think we all agree that it was a total flop, if not a reversal. An experience in a video game when we have already spent two years in lockdown. We want to go out, to see, to touch matter and to carry things. I think the concept will adjust but the idea would be to meet a need and not to create the demand or the need.<\/p>\n\n

What would be the iconic item in your home, Steven Passaro? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

There are two things that have been following me since the beginning: we have this famous trench coat that was originally designed for the Act of Growth<\/em> collection. The shape is very beautiful, I like to keep it and transform it every season. <\/p>\n\n

There is also this pleated panty skirt that has been much requested and that comes back regularly since it is a piece that is part of the first research, I would say that it is the look a little iconic.<\/p>\n\n

\"\"
steven passaro- ss22<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

At Icon-Icon, we are particularly interested in icons, what would be your absolute one? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

There are personal items that I particularly appreciate.<\/p>\n\n

Last year, I found a McQueen jacket in a thrift store that I paid five euros for. A piece that is part of the first jackets that McQueen had put out on the market, I love it! <\/p>\n\n

But there\u2019s one piece I\u2019ve been fantasizing about for a very long time that I\u2019ve never been able to find, and that\u2019s a Dris Van Notten<\/a>shirt, which is quite long with a chest strap, a strap, and an embroidery. I’m obssesed with this collection and this item in particular. I would love to own one, it’s like my iconic item.<\/p>\n\n

To finish what are your future projects, what future would you like to give to your label? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

It\u2019s funny because I often wonder about that right now.<\/p>\n\n

I love what I do, what I have built with the team with whom we have an incredible synergy because our projects are quite innovative. Today, we are dealing with something quite new, sometimes we run into obstacles because people are afraid of technology and speed. <\/p>\n\n

But where I see that it is very interesting and innovative, is that I would like to continue this story, for example with the mesh we have a system that allows to make prototypes in 3D with coding… and we just have to send the program to the industrial knitter. <\/p>\n\n

When it comes to image communication, development, we are rethinking a 360 communication on the different channels: Tiktok and Instagram especially, because I find that today we have too much image, but no sense at all, I want to have more meaning, of emotion in everything we do about it. <\/p>\n\n

Finally, I would like to parade a lot to have this scenographic dimension in terms of means. We have participated in all the Andam competitions, LVMH awards and I would of course like at some point to have one of these come to me. <\/p>\n\n

What affects me the most is that this vision develops and is shared, which is the most important. <\/p>\n\n

interview made by S\u00e9bastion Girard, presiden of Icon-Icon.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Steven Passaro has been nominated for prestigious awards in the very closed fashion world, as in the LVMH Prize, and is a young designer to follow closely. ased in Paris under his eponymous brandsince 2019, he offers a different approach to fashion. His wardrobe is mostly male, while incorporating more feminine codes. There follow collections…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":76645,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[32],"tags":[32180,23348,29738,32044,23252,32181,31827,32182],"class_list":["post-76756","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion-accessories","tag-creator-en","tag-fashion-en-2","tag-icone-en","tag-interview-en","tag-luxe-en","tag-passaro-en","tag-sebastien-girard-en-2","tag-steven-en"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nInterview: Steven Passaro, A Young Talent To Follow Closely - ICON-ICON<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"based in Paris since 2019 the eponymous brand of Steven Passaro offers a new approch on fashion. 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