{"id":6938,"date":"2014-01-02T15:06:21","date_gmt":"2014-01-02T14:06:21","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/icon-vrai.loc\/2014\/01\/02\/le-smoking-the-story-behind-a-constantly-reinvented-piece\/"},"modified":"2021-06-07T14:44:13","modified_gmt":"2021-06-07T12:44:13","slug":"le-smoking-the-story-behind-a-constantly-reinvented-piece","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.icon-icon.com\/en\/le-smoking-the-story-behind-a-constantly-reinvented-piece\/","title":{"rendered":"\u201cLe Smoking\u201d: the Story Behind a Constantly Reinvented Piece"},"content":{"rendered":"
1966. Pants were prohibited, or at least looked down on, for women. The reason: their \u201cobscenity\u201d. Two years before the tumultuous Parisian riots of May 1968, at a time when women were beginning to flourish in their active lives, Yves Saint Laurent punctuated his career dedicated to beauty and elegance by bequeathing them an argument for power. In that year, the couturier announced his Pop Art collection; it caused a stir and ended up changing all the rules in the fashion world. Amongst the pieces from that Fall\/Winter 1966-1967 haute couture runway was a scandalous silhouette: #262 was dubbed \u201cLe Smoking\u201d by the Americans no less – the first suit for women ever to be designed by a man. YSL, during his farewells for the haute couture show in 2002, emotionally reminisced: \u201cI always wanted to put myself at the service of women. I wanted to accompany them in the great movement for liberation that occurred last century.\u201d And it was through this piece, consisting of straight-legged pants, a white ruffled organza shirt, a bow tie, a satin belt to tie everything together around a long jacket with an adjusted cut, that he succeeded in turning his era upside down. It was goodbye to the endless parade of insufferably long dresses; \u201cle smoking\u201d became the new standard in evening wear. The first to sport it was Catherine Deneuve in 1967. A number of conservatives were quite offended! Seeing it as a confusion of genders and thereby a perversion of the natural order of things, judging it without being able to observe Yves Saint Laurent\u2019s genius… indeed, a second-hand interpretation can lend itself to misunderstanding. Instead of giving women second-hand men\u2019s designs, the artist undressed men to accommodate women.<\/div>\n
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These tuxedo-clad women also evoked the wave of cross-dressing that, from the British colonies to the lesbian cabarets of Paris, was in fashion during the post-war years.\u00a0Gar\u00e7onnes\u00a0<\/em>and female homosexuals wore a full suit with a cigarette holder in hand. For Pierre Berg\u00e9, the Saint Laurent woman isn\u2019t an androgynous one: \u201cshe borrows clothes from men to heighten her femininity.\u201d A bit like Chanel. It was no coincidence then that they say she liberated women while Yves Saint Laurent empowered them. Power, indeed, that\u2019s what it\u2019s all about. By borrowing, transcribing this masculine garment, symbol of power, to allow women to wear it, Yves in his own words \u201cconferred the attributes of one gender to another.\u201d Pierre Berg\u00e9 sees the idea of a woman in a men\u2019s suit as: \u201cthe very mark of a woman of today. I think that, if you had to represent the woman of the 70s at some point in time, a woman wearing pants would come to mind since… pants became one of the cornerstone pieces in the modern woman\u2019s wardrobe.\u201d From 1966 until Yves Saint Laurent retired from the fashion world, \u201cle smoking\u201d became immortal. Just like a ritual, its passing-by on the runway is coveted. Throughout his years of creation, the couturier explored and used all the possibilities within the principle: never saying no to the mixing of genres, calling out to any and every hybridization, \u201cle smoking\u201d has been transfigured through skirts, shorts, knickers, dresses, or kimonos. Remaining a sure bet at the hand of YSL, \u201cle smoking\u201d never ceases to suggest the extreme sensuality of a contrast between masculine and feminine. Discovering its virile rigor through a slit along the thigh, exhibiting a shoulder, or simply tied with a black lace bra… \u201cLe smoking\u201d became mythic when it made itself the eternal home of ultra femininity, in 1989, when it brushed right up against the skin. Today, this creation incarnates the epitome of elegance, giving grace and self-assurance to its bearer.<\/div>\n
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While it may have been imagined for haute couture in 1966, the icon really got heads turning in Saint Laurent Rive Gauche\u2019s ready-to-wear line. Yves Saint Laurent deployed his creation to blur the lines between the stage and the streets, between pomp and circumspect. Grasping this distinction, he made his creation a manifesto of it. Marguerite Duras perceived \u201cSaint Laurent women from the harems, castles, and even the suburbs; they walk the streets, the metros, the Prisunic, the Bourse.\u201d Through this piece, he allowed a woman to always feel in fashion, for it\u2019s a stylish piece, not a fashionable one. \u201cFashions pass, style remains.\u201d<\/div>\n
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The Tuxedo Smoking of YSL: Key dates<\/b><\/span><\/p>\n

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1966<\/b>\u00a0Yves Saint Laurent<\/a> introduces Le smoking tuxedo<\/a> suit in the\u00a0POP Art Collection\u00a0with the French actress\u00a0Catherine Deneuve\u00a0<\/a>as a model. A full dinner jacket suit is paired with open-toed pumps.<\/p>\n

1974<\/b>\u00a0The English actress, model and singer\u00a0Charlotte Rampling\u00a0<\/a>is protagonist of a new campaign for Le smoking.<\/p>\n

1975<\/b>\u00a0 Helmut Newton\u00a0makes the look immortal by photographing\u00a0Vibeke Knudsen<\/a>\u00a0in Rue Aubriot for the French edition of Vogue.<\/p>\n

1971<\/b>\u00a0Bianca Jagger\u00a0<\/a>wears the YSL Smoking to her wedding with\u00a0Mick Jagger.<\/p>\n

1986<\/b>\u00a0Catherine Deneuve\u00a0<\/a>is again protagonist of a campaign for Le smoking on Vogue.<\/p>\n

1991<\/b>\u00a0The Canadian model\u00a0Yasmeen Ghauri\u00a0<\/a>wears Le smoking with a chic top hat and a shorter unplugged black jacket in the Spring\/Summer couture<\/a>.<\/p>\n

1993<\/b>\u00a0Kate Moss\u00a0<\/a>poses for Yves Saint Laurent\u2019s Spring advertising campaign signed by Helmut Newton.<\/p>\n

1997<\/b>\u00a0YSL introduces a new old school look<\/a> for le smoking and the smoking Barathea tuxedo<\/a> in Spring\/Summer couture collection<\/a>.<\/p>\n

1999<\/b>\u00a0Phillipe Cometti\u00a0revamps the image of the classic Smoking with\u00a0Stella Tennant<\/a>\u00a0as a model for the Fall\/Winter collection<\/a>.<\/p>\n

2001<\/b>\u00a0Yves Saint Laurent replaces the traditional jacket with some fur<\/a> and forwent shirts for the Fall Winter couture collection<\/a>.<\/p>\n

2001<\/b>\u00a0YSL changes things with a greyer suit with white gloves for the Spring\/Summer collection<\/a>.<\/p>\n

2002<\/b>\u00a0YSL designs a new version of the Smoking with a dress in his last Collection show.<\/a> He says his Goodbye<\/a> to the fashion world with his models wearing Le smoking<\/a> in the\u00a02002 couture collection<\/a>.<\/p>\n

2008<\/b>\u00a0Kate Moss\u00a0poses for a YSL Ad Campaign<\/a> by\u00a0Inez Van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin.<\/p>\n

2009<\/b>\u00a0French comedian\u00a0Melanie Laurent\u00a0sparks at Cannes Film festival wearing a white Smoking<\/a>.\u2019<\/p>\n

2012<\/b>\u00a0Jessica Chastain\u00a0poses for the new Manifesto perfume campaign<\/a> wearing Le Smoking<\/a> portrayed by\u00a0Max Vadukul.<\/p>\n

2013<\/b>\u00a0Cara Delevigne\u00a0wears Le smoking for\u00a0YSL Baby Doll Mascara campaign<\/a>.<\/p>\n

2013<\/b>\u00a0Anne Hathaway\u00a0joins\u00a0Kate Moss,\u00a0Scarlett Johansson\u00a0and\u00a0Amber Valletta\u00a0on the\u00a0Hedi Slimane\u00a0hype<\/a> with each a unique Smoking style<\/a>.<\/p>\n

2013 <\/b>: YSL dresses the Daft Punk metal band in smoking<\/a>.<\/p>\n

2014<\/b>\u00a0Hedi Slimane\u00a0presents\u00a0Abbey Lee Kershaw\u00a0<\/a>with a modern-day version of Le Smoking<\/a>.<\/p>\n

2014<\/b>\u00a0Jennifer Connelly\u00a0in smoking Saint Laurent<\/a> by\u00a0Hedi Slimane\u00a0in the\u00a0DuJour Magazine\u00a0Performance party in New York.<\/p>\n

2014<\/b>\u00a0Hollywood actress\u00a0Angelina Jolie\u00a0spotted wearing le smoking<\/a> with an undone tie and satin side strips for the\u00a0BAFTA. One month later will be the turn of Emma Watson.<\/p>\n

2015<\/b>\u00a0Julianne Moore\u00a0<\/a>stuns in\u00a0a classic jacket and long pants Smoking with a see through top in the Canadian Screen awards.<\/p>\n

2016 \u2013 2016<\/b> : YSL presents a new version of Le Smoking Tuxedo<\/a>.<\/p>\n

2016<\/b>\u00a0Jane Birkin\u00a0is the new face of Yves Saint Laurent\u2019s Le Smoking Campaign<\/a>.<\/p>\n

2017<\/b> : Anthony Vaccarello proposes a new version of the Tuxedo for his Fall Winter collection<\/a>.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

1966. Pants were prohibited, or at least looked down on, for women. The reason: their \u201cobscenity\u201d. Two years before the tumultuous Parisian riots of May 1968, at a time when women were beginning to flourish in their active lives, Yves Saint Laurent punctuated his career dedicated to beauty and elegance by bequeathing them an argument…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":6935,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[32,6],"tags":[56,12178,12173,12174,627,623,7352,7350,12175,12177,12176,8058,199],"class_list":["post-6938","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion-accessories","category-ready-to-wear","tag-chanel","tag-freedom-women","tag-freja-beha","tag-freja-beha-saint-laurent","tag-pierre-berge","tag-smoking","tag-smoking-saint-laurent","tag-smoking-yves-saint-laurent","tag-thuxedo-saint-laurent","tag-trouser-women","tag-trousers","tag-tuxedo","tag-yves-saint-laurent"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n\u201cLe Smoking\u201d: the Story Behind a Constantly Reinvented Piece - ICON-ICON<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.icon-icon.com\/en\/le-smoking-the-story-behind-a-constantly-reinvented-piece\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"\u201cLe Smoking\u201d: the Story Behind a Constantly Reinvented Piece - ICON-ICON\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"1966. Pants were prohibited, or at least looked down on, for women. The reason: their \u201cobscenity\u201d. 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Pants were prohibited, or at least looked down on, for women. The reason: their \u201cobscenity\u201d. 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