“Fashion goes out of fashion, style never does” said Gabrielle Chanel. A four-pocket vest, a silk blouse made out of the same fabric as the lining, a below-the-knee skirt. A complete feminine myth, symbol of an efficient and evident elegance. More than just a fashion product, the tweed suit incarnates a style, that of delicate timelessness and gracious constance.
Born in 1954 in response to Dior’s New Look, the tweed suit appears as an artifact of the spirit and convictions of its creator. The silhouette is straight, structured by a collarless jacket and closed edge to edge, just like a second skin. A brass chain attached to the edges of the jacket makes it lay impeccably. The skirt is straight, below the knee, and made of the same fabric as the vest. Freedom of movement and raw perfection come together to create this icon of modern femininity. It gives off an androgynous allure, a game between feminine and masculine that sensually expresses itself. The two bigger pockets on the front of the jacket allow women’s hands a place to dive in, a gesture previously reserved for men. Without shoulder padding, the sleeves allow the delicate feminine wrist to make an appearance. The architecture of the suit is simple, its only adornment being the strap that highlights the contours of the jacket, and the addition of pearls, bows, and jeweled buttons. Tweed, a carded wool fabric known for its flexibility, replaces the jersey fabric that Chanel sported in the 20s. All the rules of the brand express themselves here, somewhere between a continuum and an assurance of a particular style.
For the Fall/Winter 2013-2014 runway, Karl Lagerfeld interprets this heritage in a cosmic and picturesque spirit. The shoulder is rounded, the skirt shortened, the waist eliminated, the collar large and imposing. Something between an exacerbated archetype and an inscription in our graphic and futuristic era, the line of suits switches everything up all while affirming itself, moving towards spatial and heroic ergonomics.
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