No one doubted the good that John Galliano’s arrival would do for the Maison Margiela. Dubbed Artisanal, his first collection under the banner of Belgian couture highlights fabrics and other recycled pieces (that’s right, recycled) in an out-of-the-ordinary and magnificent vein that only Galliano could pull off. Without erring onto the side of tacky, the artist honed his theatrical and romantic touch to bring it into contact with the conceptual minimalism of his new fashion house. The result is breathtaking: historical-baroque creatures glide down the runway, a line of divas with busts adorned with broken toys, chains, pearls, springs, and shells, sometimes glossed over with an explosive red, sometimes toned down in a jet black… And suits, one of Martin Margiela’s feat of arms, are the testament to this successful fusion.
As if cut in a well-worn and rugged fabric, the black men’s couture suit by Galliano for Margiela oozes desirability. It lays impeccably, with dead-on technique. The jacket is precisely made to let a graceful body corset slip out when left half-open, as if borrowed from a ballerina. The pants can be softly slipped on right to the waist, stopping right at the heel. Absolutely magnificent.
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