Things are kept modest at Chanel, just like the Mademoiselle would have wanted. That’s why the Kaiser’s creative profusion is often expressed in the elaboration of spectacular runways that are more enthralling each season. This season, it was the brasserie Gabrielle that got recreated beneath the glass dome of the Grand Palais. From the checked tiles to the Parisian brasserie counter, sounds of clinking dishes and red benches reified an atmosphere on the very edge of reality. In the couture department, black, white, and a few eccentric touches took on the icons from the double-C brand here and there.
In this profusion of revisited classics, the little Chanel jacket is completely overhauled with new proportions. It’s a piece in which different eras live together; a silhouette where the years come together than diverge again in a nameless modernity. Playing with contrast of materials, Lagerfeld reinvents the icon. The little chain, previously eclipsed within the internal lining, breaks free from its shackles and clamps onto the tweed to form a quilted motif. This quilted effect only perfects the piece’s graphicness: the buttons are precious, but sportswear chic is still the overall vibe. In the end, it’s safe to say that next winter’s little Chanel jacket will be the icon of tomorrow.
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