“Monsieur Saint Laurent’s subversive approach to clothing”; it was on this note that the March 1st runway kicked off. Yves Saint Laurent was known to translate the energy of Parisian soirées and the turbulent jet-setter lifestyle into clothing that was full of fantasy, glamour, and androgyny. This is indeed subversion: masculine-feminine, bare breasts, 80s dresses… in the end, the founder’s fascination for perverse romanticism is communicated here through ingenious and audacious pieces. In evening minidresses made of draped leather, the Yves Saint Laurent woman is transformed into a sexy, war-faring creature, with a pair of gloves so long that they form sculptural sleeves accompanying her movements.
It all adds up to a graphic silhouette that’s definitively anchored in what Anthony Vaccarello defines as “a somber romanticism tinged with perversity. I wanted this collection to be a new reading, a radical fantasy of this heritage.” Radical indeed, the legendary Yves Saint Laurent tuxedo is imagined to give women a grip on an extreme sensuality with a rhinestone lining – this is an example of one of the label’s classic pieces getting brought to the next level with an impertinent style. This Fall/Winter 2017 tuxedo was imagined to party the night away in the hottest clubs around the world.
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