The silhouette imagined by creative director Kris Van Assche plays with contrasts. Adjusted jackets and three-fourths cuts – on bottom, the pants are more streetwear. With large pieces and cargo pants, the Dior man finally seems to adventure into the intellect of the underground, more particularly that of ravers. In reality, Kris Van Assche was inspired by the Candy Boys, a little known hedonistic subculture that may have been a bit sickened to be put on the runway, much less to grow up. When the designer sounded off about this collection, it was with a tinge of emotion that he said: âI always found the path to adulthood to be very touching, this period when boys become men but still hold on to certain dreams to not completely fit into a straitjacket.â And since the Dior man is first and foremost an explorer, free in deed and act, itâs within an adventurous spirit that he goes out to explore a rave.
Developing a palette of black, red, and white before plunging into a 90s rave atmosphere, Kris Van Assche plays with bringing out pieces that boast perfect tailoring and bright colors. âRather than accepting this idea that the suit is on the decline, that people want to wear sweatshirts and jeans, Iâm laying claim to a new suit that can speak to young people.â And look 41 perfectly incarnates the artistâs desire. âThis is a collection that claims savoir-faire in suits (âŠ) Menâs fashion is on a slippery slope: there are large fashion houses that donât do runways anymore, houses that mix menâs and womenâs, itâs going in a bunch of different directions.â
And so he overturns the rules of tailoring, pairing bright colors with the rigorous cuts of a full suit. In an early 90s rave version with a game of colors – the orange from the lining of bombers from the era comes out to play – various slogans recall the demands of a youth left to fend for themselves. This trans-generational work yields a piece thatâs exponentially desirable.
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