The Balenciaga Bolero

It’s through ancient fabrics and historical or popular costumes that the couturier brought together what is today recognized as the essential themes that preceded Balenciaga’s creation. In Winter 1937, the couturier to end all couturiers presented his first Parisian collection that was an immense success. Through a taste for intense colors and the introduction of certain pieces, all of the couturier’s Spanish influence was able to shine through. A true history buff, Cristobal Balenciaga was able to integrate the universe of traditional Hispanic costuming into Haute Couture. The bolero, a traditional Spanish piece, was thus able to enter into the haute couture currents of the 50s and 60s. Balenciaga was also a collector… His private collection once more reveals his love for his native Spain: among his favorites, two male boleros from the later half of the 19th century.

Cristobal Balenciaga made himself the master of unique details. From the pompon bolero, recalling the bolero of a torero, to flouncing dresses reminiscent of flamenco, the flat bowtie or black lace, embroidery or ornamentation, the couturier transfigured his fascination into veritable fashion objects. Balenciaga also had the genius idea of “popularizing” the bolero, a piece made famous by Grace Kelly or the Countess von Bismarck, by transforming it into a jewel of a garment adorned with embroideries, pearls, sequins, and lace motifs. Balenciaga’s boleros weren’t just embroidered but also draped with silk or black lace… “With fabrics, we do what we can. Balenciaga on the other hand, does what he wants,” said Christian Dior. The bolero was thus reworked to perfection with sumptuous details and cuts – the most feminine of accessories that ever was, in the hands of Balenciaga, made to top off a dress and recompose the silhouette. With this unique piece that was so near and dear to Balenciaga is expressed all of the couturier’s conceptual geometry: a torero’s bolero embroidered with jet pearls or enormous jewels that adorn an ultra-purified outfit, in continuity with Spanish traditions.