From the iconic camellia to Grasse roses, gardenias, violets, and irises that compose the fashion house’s mythic perfumes, the flower remains an element that is indissociable from the brand that Gabrielle founded. Karl Lagerfeld for his part receives his collections like a flash of inspiration, like a message received from an imaginary world, or simply an illumination from the couture garden of Eden. The Paris runway show was surprisingly soft, its creations magical and fairy-like. But it was first and foremost a runway founded on the conventional values of Hautre Couture, with savoir-faire deployed to reinvent Mademoiselle’s classics. And just for the occasion, the Kaiser orchestrated a suit and a little black vest in a number of dapper shades.
In this fleeting universe, fantastical and shining, the emblematic suit imagined by Gabrielle takes on a 60s allure. The tweed serves its purpose in incorporating the cyclamen orange that so well fits the tone. Its a work in reliefs and textures that magnifies sportswear details to, like a nonchalantly retied knot, revives all the iconic-ness of great women of the past century. And today, it’s with an abruptly cut A-line skirt that Karl Lagerfeld is electing to dress up his elegant beauties. Post-modern for sure, but with a poetic air nonetheless.
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