At age 54, Marc Jacobs is entering into his 25th year of fashion activity, and he’s celebrating the event through a medley collection. For Spring/Summer 2018, the designer is offering a daydream that takes place far away from New York. Somewhere is the name of this new collection that’s billed as “a reimagining of past seasons”. But make no mistake: Marc Jacobs is signing off on a plethora of fantasy silhouettes, as if they’re extracted from summers past in a dreamlike world located in a tropical paradise. Within this dreamy context, Marc Jacobs’ archives and codes espouse lightness, prints, and the boldness of antipodes, which have always been a central feature in the American designer’s creations.
Marc Jacobs’ Spring/Summer 2018 collection isn’t content with merely citing his icons; he distorts them and exaggerates them through the prism of a decadent exoticism. Within the gargantuan Park Avenue Armory, his models went forth in total silence. No music set the rhythm for their steps, and in this quasi-religious atmosphere, everything came down to the essential: the clothing. When the glamour of sequins admirably espouses the designer’s adoration for streetwear, there’s no doubt about it: Marc Jacobs is going back to what he knows best. The runway reaches its height with an XXL checked overcoat that’s ingeniously held in place by a cord system. The orange turban, worn by Gigi Hadid, is a nod to the famous silver turban worn by Kate Moss at the Met Ball, co-organized by the duo in 2009.
In total contrast with the stage’s setup, the runway was an explosion of colors and cuts. Exaggerated oversize pieces, hallucinogenic floral prints, bright colors, and a number of references all come together here. The Studio 54 girls introduced for the Spring 2012 collection, the Jamiroquai girls from Fall 2012, and the winter angels of Fall 2014 were all present and accounted for. All of these iconic elements in the Marc Jacobs wardrobe were reworked with an exaggeration befitting of the occasion.
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