The genesis of the reptilian icon is in Paris’ place Vendiôme. The year was 1932, and the collection, named Tubogas as a reference to the industrial aesthetics of the era, unveiled the very first serpentine pieces of jewelry. The uniqueness of these jewels resided in the articulation of their structure: from these bracelet-watches, the articulation came to roll itself around the wrist with a number of gold hinges and a dissimulated spring. This flexibility with sinuous forms was inspired by the dynamism of the snake, a symbol of immortality. Bulgari’s work became even more refined throughout time, revealing a bewitching body that reuses the theme of scaly clasps. The head, marked by eyes fashioned from lapis-lazuli or malachite, opens up to reveal a dial that is completely composed of tiles and a minuscule forked tongue. These creations, while following the hyper-realism of the 60s, valorize metalworking techniques and polychrome combinations of precious stones… But no matter the trend, the mythological reptilian figure seems to be have subtly taken over the aesthetic universe of the Italian jeweler.
The animal would soon charm all of Hollywood as well. In 1962 during a photo shoot for the promotion of the film “Cleopatra” in Rome, Elizabeth Taylor immortalized the yellow gold watch – its head and tale made of diamonds with emerald eyes. Yes, the Queen of Egypt herself wore snake bracelets. Catapulted to the ranks of a dogmatic must-have, the Serpenti collection would waste no time in becoming a legend. It’s a true cult classic piece, a vestige of glamour and the golden age of Hollywood. Then came the promise of eternal love between a jeweler and a diamond collector. On this subject, Richard Burton, who she fell in love with on set, confided that “the only word of Italian that Elizabeth knows is Bulgari.” This idyllic romance espoused a release of necklaces and rings in a collection that was part of the undulating line with bewitching inspiration.
Bulgari highlighted its shiny scale bracelets in 1975. A famous ad campaign with animalistic splendor, a graphic and dreamy representation of the shapes symbolizing wisdom and infinity. This raw and pragmatic representation of the animal seduced Diana Vreeland, who prophesied: “Don’t forget the snake, it should be on every finger, every wrist…” Appealing to say the least. Just like the serpent that writhes around and renews itself, Serpenti is the supreme incarnation of jewelry inventiveness. It never ceases to be updated and brilliantly reinvented all while remaining loyal to the values and unique style of the Bulgari spectrum what with its 130 years of existence. The sacralization of this reptile took place in 2013 with the release of “Bulgari Serpenti Collection”, an editorial dedicated to the Serpenti creative odyssey and its most emblematic pieces. Last year, on a quest for eternal beauty, the Italian brand glorified its magical creature in one of the most modern collections. Each creation reveals elegant spirals while the addition of buckles adds character and imperious style to each jewel. The Serpenti by Bulgari has unleashed its venom on jewelry for centuries to come.
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