He described his runway as “a gesture of respect for a generation that will always be at the base of urban youth culture – hip-hop, the outsiders that reorganized the mainstream.” The collection itself was called Respect – on the runway, parkas, jogging pants, shirts, zipped knits, and vintage-esque mini-dresses appeared on these neo-street warriors. With snapbacks and oversize beanies on their heads, Marc Jacobs’ Fall/Winter 2017-2018 women are clearly opting to go back to the roots of hip-hop.
Within the immense Armory, the ex-military building where Marc Jacobs usually holds his runways, just two rows of chairs were set up – no music, no pathway. Everything was raw, silent, as if all the conditions had been fulfilled to yield a new subculture. But it was still New York: “Born and raised in New York, it was during my time at the High School of Art and Design that I was able to feel the influence of hip-hop on other musical genres, but also on art and fashion. This collection is an homage.” An homage to kids from the wrong side of the tracks that, with very little, were able to ingeniously forge their own destiny despite an opposing dominant culture that would subdue them.
Among the many notable pieces are cloche hats by Stephen Jones that recall the bucket hats popularized by rappers in the 80s. But first and foremost is this straight-cut jacket with fur lining. With a ribbed velours, no other piece better suits Marc Jacobs’ original inspiration – all in a palette of neutral shades from beige to dark brown, for a first-degree spirit with certified desirability.
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