Following Paris-Moscow and Paris-Bombay, Karl Lagerfeld has decided to honor Barrie Knitwear, a Scottish cashmere manufacturer and latest acquisition of the French haute couture house, in the Linlithgow Palace. This runway show is also a broader homage to Scotland, first discovered by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel thanks to the Duke of Westminster. It was here that she drew her inspiration for her tweed creations, knits, and cardigans. Every winter, the remarkably talented featherers, embroiderers, trimmers, and shoemakers working for Chanel are spotlighted in order to show off their exceptional pieces, each demonstrating the remarkable know-how of the design house’s ateliers.
Without sinking into the category of “folkloric”, Scotland, as Chanel sees it, consists of models imbued by a form of ancient romanticism mixed with a contemporary sophistication that is certainly not lacking in charm. A touch of creamy pink graces certain pieces in the collection, as if to bring out their delicate and elegant side. The resulting romantic/grungy figures are then put into rotation. This fashion show is brought to life not only by bouffant sleeve dresses by French fashion house Lesage, but also by structured coats in a cashmere tweed, inspired by kilts and ball skirts made of tweed and horsehair. Certain mythical pieces such as the timeless Chanel cardigan are revisited, similar to a frock coat with its brown and green hues. Their quilted purse is transformed into a messenger-style bag. The famed little black dress additionally makes in appearance, albeit in a less slim version. The kilt gets a much needed makeover as well: by experimenting with varying levels of transparency, chiffon fabric, and a deconstructed length, this otherwise ordinary piece is made exceptional.
This is an introspective into the past that aims to haughtily reinvent the future.
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