London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 has always been a platform for the expression of both heritage and avant-garde—and this edition was no exception! Focus on iconic houses and designers to watch this season!

London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025: Burberry, J.W. Anderson, Simone Rocha

As London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 celebrates 40 years of being one of the year’s major fashion events, the iconic British fashion houses have brilliantly revisited their signature codes, injecting modernity while maintaining a dialogue with their heritage.

Historic names like Burberry and designers such as 16 Arlington offered bold reinterpretations of what defines their DNA. For Burberry, under the artistic direction of Daniel Lee, the Spring/Summer 2025 collection marked a bold transformation. By reinventing its iconic tartan motif through inspired garment constructions, the house fused British tradition with contemporary aesthetics.

The iconic trench coats were reworked with a more fluid cut and luxurious materials like leather, while the classic Prince of Wales and houndstooth patterns appeared in contemporary pieces, from co-ed suits to oversized coats. By blending its roots with a future-oriented vision, Burberry proves that its heritage remains as relevant as ever.

Simone Rocha once again captivated with a collection that marries delicacy and strength. The designer’s codes—tulle, pearls, and embroidery—were still present, but this season, they were juxtaposed with more structured cuts and bolder silhouettes. She revisited her romantic universe by adding a sporty touch, particularly with oversized floral details and sculptural accessories that brought a dramatic dimension.

Jonathan Anderson once again demonstrated his mastery of innovative design with his Spring/Summer 2025 collection for JW Anderson, presented at London Fashion Week. Known for his attention to detail and unconventional approach, Jonathan Anderson offered a collection that combined functionality with fantasy. This season, he played with materials like silk and leather, adding touches of originality with sequins and oversized silhouettes.

Key pieces included light dresses with oversized knitted effects and highly desirable basin-shaped pieces. Anderson’s approach reflected a deliberately bold vision, where craftsmanship and the unexpected meet. Trompe-l’œil techniques blurred the line between art and clothing.

With Richard Quinn, every show is a spectacle. This season, he once again fused extravagant couture with a punk spirit. Dramatic silhouettes, vibrant floral prints, and voluminous cuts were paired with edgier elements like leather and studs, evoking both exaggerated femininity and a rebellious attitude! “The collection was really about the art of dressing for grand occasions,” he said, “but also about the association of memories with clothes. It was really about creating pieces that people will cherish over time. Being in charge of making wedding dresses is an incredible thing for me, for us.”

16 Arlington invited the public to dive into the world of Almodóvar. Capaldo revealed a Spring/Summer 2025 collection inspired by the psychological thriller The Skin I Live In by Almodóvar. Fascinated by the tones and atmosphere of the film, he translated this ambiance into pieces that combined refinement and mystery. Fluid silhouettes, contrasting materials like leather and silk, and the use of patterns evoking works of art brought the collection to life, both dark and elegant. True to his style, Capaldo continues to explore complex themes, while highlighting meticulous craftsmanship, with handmade details and strong inspirations.